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Thread: LC-1 wiring question..

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blacky
    If you have a multimeter, then temporarily reconfigure the LC-1 so that the analog output is set to a flat, horizontal line at a specific voltage. i.e. set 10AFR=4V and 20AFR=4V. That will cause the LC-1 to output 4 volts all the time. Use the multimeter to check that there is 4 volts between analog 1 or 2 (whichever you configured) and analog ground.
    If that checks out, plug it into FlashScan and check the PID: {EXT.AD1} or {EXT.AD2} (whichever you connected it to) to see if FlashScan reads 4 volts also.

    Regards
    Paul
    Thanks Paul . As always, you are very helpful!

    EDIT:

    Just pulled down on the panel below the driver's steering column. My car is a VX2. The 12V red wire should actually be plugged into the top left slot of the (spare) 12V switched source on the VX, whereas Blacky's VT clearly shows the red wire connected to a spare slot in the top right.

    Further, I measured the voltage at that point and obtained a reading of 11.96V from ground (where blue wire is screwed down). The voltage signal from the phone harness (along the centre console, see pic below) was actually stronger where I saw exactly 12V. As a comparison, the cigarette plug gave me 11.9V between positive and negative.



    Just food for thought... spoilt for choices now.

    Btw, I'm having some connectivity issues wrt my WO2 atm - I'm using the cig lighter... the EXT.AD2 reading is showing only 2.35V instead of an expected 5.0V.
    Last edited by SSbaby; February 16th, 2006 at 11:08 PM.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blacky
    Below, right of steering column. Fold down the entire panel under the steering column. The pic is of a 2000 VT.

    FlashScan's ground is connected to pins 4 and 5 of the OBDII connector. Check the ground offset between pins 4 or 5 of the OBDII connector (top two center pins) and the cigarette lighter ground. If they are at the same voltage then you can connect system ground to the lighter and analog ground to FlashScan no problem.

    Regards
    Paul
    I got out and checked tonight. There is 0.06V difference between my cigarette lighter and Flashscan's ground point

  3. #13
    Member bK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blacky
    Hi Ira,

    Yes, you should connect analog and system ground together.

    From the LC-1 install manual:

    Pin D (analog ground) of FlashScan is exactly the same circuit as the ground for FlashScan.

    FlashScan Pin D = DB9 Pin 1 and 2 = OBDII Pin 4 and 5 = chassis and signal ground.

    Note: Pins 4 and 5 (chassis and signal) ground are tied together on GM OBDII applications.

    Regards
    Paul
    Hi Paul,

    Not sure if this idea is possible or had been thought of before but seeing Flashscan uses pins 1 and 2 of DB9 connector for ground, could I setup a very short adaptor between OBDII cable's DB9 female connector and the male DB9 connector of the Flashscan?

    The DB9 adaptor will be straight thru with a connection point (pins 1 & 2 together) to allow grounding of the LC-1 analogue, system wires and Pin D from the Flashscan so in theory will give me 0V offset between Flashscan and LC-1?

    Would this adaptor cause problems with the signal from OBDII interface to the Flashscan?

    Cheers,
    Brett
    Chassis by Holden
    Engine by Chev
    PCM modified by Flashscan
    Cam by Comp Cams

  4. #14
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    Not sure if this idea is possible or had been thought of before but seeing Flashscan uses pins 1 and 2 of DB9 connector for ground, could I setup a very short adaptor between OBDII cable's DB9 female connector and the male DB9 connector of the Flashscan?

    Pin 1 maybe, don't remember the 9 pin pinout that well, but pin 2 is data, not ground.

    FWIW, you really should connect the analog ground and analog out to the orange plug, the shorter that connection, the less chance for noise and errors due to offsets and ground loops.

    Ira

  5. #15
    Senior Member Tydriver's Avatar
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    Not 100% ON-TOPIC.. But anyone know anything about HEATER CIRCUIT failure error ??

    I installed my LC-1, it ran for about 2-3 days and now I am getting the flashing error code #2. The manual says heater circuit error.

    Do I just change out the O2 sensor ? Kinda stumped as it worked good for 2-3 days then just quit and nothing else was changed in the vehicle.

    I am open for ideas/input from this.. I'd hate to just buy another O2 just to test..

    Todd

    1993 BMW 325is <- For Sale
    2003 Silverado LS 4x4 <--- you want to autocross what?
    2005 Avalanche 5.3L LS(EFI Live tuned) <-- my gas hog running on e85 3+ years now
    2012 Subaru Outback (wife's daily)

  6. #16
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    I installed my LC-1, it ran for about 2-3 days and now I am getting the flashing error code #2. The manual says heater circuit error.

    An ohmmeter between heater 12V and ground should answer the question if the heater's bad. I'd guess it should measure 5 to 15 ohms, but if you want I can go measure my collection and tell you what they average. If memory serves me correctly, www.1stvwparts.com has good prices on those. I think I paid in the $39 range for the ones I have and today they show $41.82 + shipping.

    Ira

  7. #17
    Member bK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ira
    Pin 1 maybe, don't remember the 9 pin pinout that well, but pin 2 is data, not ground.

    FWIW, you really should connect the analog ground and analog out to the orange plug, the shorter that connection, the less chance for noise and errors due to offsets and ground loops.

    Ira
    Let me see if I got this right, I don't need to connect LC-1's system and analogue ground (green and white wires) to a chassis ground just to PIN D of the Flashscan?

    Cheers,
    Brett


    EDIT: I took a day off and came back to re-read the instructions from the lc-1 installation.pdf on efilive website and found the answer staring me straight in the face.
    Last edited by bK; May 22nd, 2006 at 06:18 PM.
    Chassis by Holden
    Engine by Chev
    PCM modified by Flashscan
    Cam by Comp Cams

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ira
    An ohmmeter between heater 12V and ground should answer the question if the heater's bad. I'd guess it should measure 5 to 15 ohms, but if you want I can go measure my collection and tell you what they average. If memory serves me correctly, www.1stvwparts.com has good prices on those. I think I paid in the $39 range for the ones I have and today they show $41.82 + shipping.

    Ira

    Awesome information !! Thanks, by chance do you happen to know the part number ? I can go crawl under my truck if need be.. Just thought it would be quicker if anyone has the # handy..

    Thanks again, you guys ROCK !!

    Todd

    1993 BMW 325is <- For Sale
    2003 Silverado LS 4x4 <--- you want to autocross what?
    2005 Avalanche 5.3L LS(EFI Live tuned) <-- my gas hog running on e85 3+ years now
    2012 Subaru Outback (wife's daily)

  9. #19
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    From your LC-1 manual:

    Replacement sensors are available from your nearest VW dealer under the VW part-number 021-906-262-B or direct from Innovate Motorsports.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ira
    From your LC-1 manual:

    Replacement sensors are available from your nearest VW dealer under the VW part-number 021-906-262-B or direct from Innovate Motorsports.
    Dayang, dont I look like a big dummy !!! Thanks for the heads up.. I appreciate all the information, I already checked with Innovate Motorsports on the sensor before I posted and was surprised it was $79+ shipping.. Hence the reason I didnt just order it online from them.. I was going to crawl under the truck and get the number off the sensor but thats cool.. I never figuired they'd refer you to their competition..

    Thanks again for all the help..

    Todd

    1993 BMW 325is <- For Sale
    2003 Silverado LS 4x4 <--- you want to autocross what?
    2005 Avalanche 5.3L LS(EFI Live tuned) <-- my gas hog running on e85 3+ years now
    2012 Subaru Outback (wife's daily)

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