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Thread: LC-1 Wideband install 5.3l

  1. #1
    Member ippielb's Avatar
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    Default LC-1 Wideband install 5.3l

    So i have just gotten two(2) LC-1 Wideband Sensors as i have true dual exhaust. And i was just curious how one should install these sensors. My truck has 4 o2 sensors stock, one before each Catalytic Converter, and one After each catalytic converter. I have removed my catalytic converters because they were plugged solid, and have disabled my rear o2 sensors. I was wondering where i should go along and installing the LC-1 sensors. Should i put them in the front two holes, or the rear two. I can also get them installed elsewhere if it will give me better results.

    In this diagram, http://download.efilive.com/Tutorial...20Tutorial.pdf , it shows that you attach the narrow band sensor to the outside of the exhaust pipe. Why would you want to do that? Wouldn't it be smart to leave it in the pipe and get new bungs for the new wide band sensors?
    Last edited by ippielb; May 10th, 2011 at 04:28 PM.
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  2. #2
    Lifetime Member Gregs's Avatar
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    throw them in the front ones, though since you don't have cats it probably wouldn't make a huge difference if you put them in the rear position.

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  3. #3
    Member ippielb's Avatar
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    I still have all 4 o2 sensors in my truck right now, Would i need to keep the front narrow bands operating normally? Or do they basically don't do anything once the widebands are in there?
    2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd 6.6l LLY Duramax
    NADP Race Transmission & NAPC Built Transfer Case
    AFE Stg 2 Intake Snow Performance Methanol Injection
    FASS 150gph Titanium Series Pump EFI Live
    PPE Race Valve & PPE Fuel Rail Fitting
    BD Manifold 3" AFE Ceramic Downpipe 4" Straight Pipe
    Yukon Grizzly Locker Mag-Hytec Cover & Traction Bars
    Leveling kit & 33" Hankook RT03 18" XD Addict Rims
    HID's all around LED taillights and 3rd brake light
    Autometer Fuel Pressure, Boost, and Pyro Gauges

  4. #4
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    Yes you really need to leave the front O2s alone. Ive had bad experience using my LC1 as a narrowband simulator, it switches too fast for my taste (I think you can adjust it but I decided it wasnt worth the trouble).

    You want the LC1s as close to the engine as possible, I have my new bung welded right before my factory passenger side NBO2 because thats the only place it fits on my TBSS. Right after the factory NBs is fine too.
    ~Erik~
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  5. #5
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Try putting your LC-1's in the rear NBO2 bungs (since you have no cats).

    Then check your wiring diagram, if the NBO2 heaters are always powered (i.e. the PCM does not do PWM), then you can use heater NBO2 power/ground to power your LC-1's (wire each LC-1 to an NBO2 connector and plug it in);

    if the NBO2 heaters are controlled by the PCM, then you have to find another source of power.

    Then, follow this closely:
    - plug the blank 2.5mm terminator plug into wideband #1 SERIAL IN;
    - connect wideband #1 SERIAL OUT to wideband #2 SERIAL IN;
    - connect wideband #2 SERIAL OUT to V2 RJ12 using a null modem serial comms cable.

    Configure your V2 as follows:
    - Com Port = wideband,
    - Format = both widebands,
    - Data Display = AFR and EQR,
    - Wideband Type = Innovate.

    Then go to the wideband display on V2 and verify they both work.

    Remember to do (on both LC-1's):
    - heater calibration,
    - free air calibration.

  6. #6
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    When connecting to V2, the serial cable must have the null modem function (i.e. Rx/Tx crossed), or of you're using two cables (LC-1 and V2) you need a null modem DB9 adapter.

    Or simply buy a cable from TAQuickness.

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