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Thread: Parameters changed for performance.

  1. #11
    Senior Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobo
    Before changing the boost levels, you must turn off the EGR. Here is what ya do:

    Set B1502 to 0. Set B1503 to 8000. The EGR will never come on. You also need to set the DTC'S Processing Enablers to X: Not Reported for P0401,p0403,p0404,p0405,and p0406. This will eliminate the EGR test at start up that could set a code from shutting the EGR off or having too much boost during the startup test. Doing these few tasks will completely disable the EGR. EGR will remain closed at all times. You can log it to prove it to yourself also. You need to select the desired pid (an EGR pid) and record the data.
    So Bob, if I'm thinking correctly, I should now be able to remove my blocker plate and Fingerstick, right?
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  2. #12
    Lifetime Member Max Power's Avatar
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    I would leave the blocker plate but you can definately get rid of the fingers stick.
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  3. #13
    Lifetime Member bobo's Avatar
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    I pulled my blocker plate. I have not seen the EGR open on any of my logs w/ it shut off the way I posted. Max, why leave the plate in?
    2005 Twin Turbo Dmax/Allison Ext. Cab Short Box 4X4
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  4. #14
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    If you play with boost, the drive pressure will be enough to crack open the EGR.

  5. #15
    EFILive Reseller
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    I've never had a blocker in mine. Guess I'll need to check it out...
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  6. #16
    Senior Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Hmm, lots of good info here. Thanks guys.
    2005 Silverado Duramax LLY - EFI Live Tuned
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  7. #17
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    I should elaborate. LLY only.

    With somewhere around 70 - 80 PSI of back pressure in the exhaust there is enough force on the EGR valve to overcome the spring. Boost on the other side will help keep it closed. So once boost builds, the valve shouldn't open. On big tunes with agressive, rapid spool up off idle, you can catch the EGR popping. Keep in mind that once it pops, it pressurizes the intake and provides false boost. So it will actually flutter more than pop. You can hear it when it happens.

    There is no power here with the stock turbo, or any benefit that I can see being this agressive, The spool up is the same or worse. The extra back pressure actually hinders the engine making power all the way up the curve.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fingers
    I should elaborate. LLY only.

    With somewhere around 70 - 80 PSI of back pressure in the exhaust there is enough force on the EGR valve to overcome the spring. Boost on the other side will help keep it closed. So once boost builds, the valve shouldn't open. On big tunes with agressive, rapid spool up off idle, you can catch the EGR popping. Keep in mind that once it pops, it pressurizes the intake and provides false boost. So it will actually flutter more than pop. You can hear it when it happens.

    There is no power here with the stock turbo, or any benefit that I can see being this agressive, The spool up is the same or worse. The extra back pressure actually hinders the engine making power all the way up the curve.
    70-80 psi of back pressure in the exhaust? Wow that sounds like a lot!

    Wouldn't you want to get rid of thatkind of BP with a decent exhaust system? I assume that when the main pulse width is increased the additional fuel helps create a large combustion cycle that will help the turbo spool up. How do we get more boost?

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  9. #19
    Lifetime Member bobo's Avatar
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    The best way to get rid of the excess back psi would be to upgrade the stock VVT turbo. It is the root cause of the problem.
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  10. #20
    Lifetime Member bobo's Avatar
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    Ohh, and Welcome Fingers!!! You have forgoten more about this motor than I will ever know. Good to see you here and thanks for the input!!
    2005 Twin Turbo Dmax/Allison Ext. Cab Short Box 4X4
    Best 1/4 11.8 @ 118+ on #2 only

    Twisted Diesel Tuning-The leader in Duramax Tuning Services and soon to offer Common Rail Cummins Tuning!

    Bobotune at rocketmail dot com

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