o2 sensors shot?

[techrunner]

ok, i am still trying to get into this tuning stuff. i have a innovate lc-1 on my swap that is reading way lean, its around 21 afr. the o2s are reading around 400 mV and they drop off as the car warms up. would this be bad sensors or bad wiring or maybe something else entirely? o2s should start switching right away and not have to wait for the engine to reach operating temp, right? it will idle fine, but stumbles if you try to drive it at more than part throttle.

[Gregs]

ok, i am still trying to get into this tuning stuff. i have a innovate lc-1 on my swap that is reading way lean, its around 21 afr. the o2s are reading around 400 mV and they drop off as the car warms up. would this be bad sensors or bad wiring or maybe something else entirely? o2s should start switching right away and not have to wait for the engine to reach operating temp, right? it will idle fine, but stumbles if you try to drive it at more than part throttle.

it kinda sounds like the lc1 might need to be recalibrated. from what i understand the o2s don't start switching immediately after startup, it takes a few min. a log would be nice

[techrunner]

how long should it have to idle to get the o2s switching? i have recalibrated the wideband twicesince the initial install, and that hasnt changed anything. here is a log i did a couple days ago. LS1B_0016.efi

[Gregs]

how long should it have to idle to get the o2s switching? i have recalibrated the wideband twicesince the initial install, and that hasnt changed anything. here is a log i did a couple days ago. LS1B_0016.efi

somethings not right, the wideband is maxed out. are you connected serial or analog? check out my issue a while back, it might help.

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....afr&highlight=

the sensors do seem dead, log coolant temp. they should start switching when they are up to temp, not much more than a few min after startup

[techrunner]

the wideband is connected to v2 serial, and i have an analog gauge hooked up. they have always matched up afr readings though. i did try that reprogram the wideband, and i still got the same thing on it right after reprogramming and recalibrating it. i think the wideband is ok, at least i have no solid reason to suspect its not. i could run another log i guess, but i am a little concerned if it is running that lean that i should not run it at all until i have something fixed. i just dont want to buy o2s and then have that not be my issue. local parts guy has them listed at like $65 each.

thanks for the suggestion though. any other thoughts?

[Gregs]

the wideband is connected to v2 serial, and i have an analog gauge hooked up. they have always matched up afr readings though. i did try that reprogram the wideband, and i still got the same thing on it right after reprogramming and recalibrating it. i think the wideband is ok, at least i have no solid reason to suspect its not. i could run another log i guess, but i am a little concerned if it is running that lean that i should not run it at all until i have something fixed. i just dont want to buy o2s and then have that not be my issue. local parts guy has them listed at like $65 each.

thanks for the suggestion though. any other thoughts?

at 25:1 + afr the car shouldn't be running, makes me think somethings up with that. you could put it into sd and richen up your fuel table to see if you really are running that lean, but my guess is you aren't

[joecar]

From the log file, the O2 sensors seem dead.

[techrunner]

so i got new o2 sensors today, just haven't got them in yet. i was thinking this should have set a code though right? i thought that both o2s being dead would have thrown codes. makes me wonder if there is something else amiss as well.

[ScarabEpic22]

No, you wont see a code unless the O2s are REALLY REALLY bad. Monitor them (looks like you already did), and if you're positive the wiring is correct, then they're shot. They usually just get lazy and dont react as quickly as they should which makes tuning extremely hard.