LBZ Idle

[andrewjamesbond1]

Yeah, maybe 1000-1200 with the vanes around 95% to work the truck might be the sweet spot. Personally, on the trucks I have played with, I have set up the ECT vane adder to close the vanes when cold, and then back off when finally warm. Helps warm the truck up plus the owners like the vanes open at idle to get more of an lb7 sound.
BriteWhiteRam - did you purchase a remote start for the lbz? If so what brand? Looking to get one for christmas hopefully

[cumminsDK]

If you find the right spot it will slowly speed up when cold but jump right to 1200 when warm.less fuel and it wont idle up when cold more it jumps right up.i don't recommend immediate high idle but a few seconds of oil pressure and all cylinders firing normally

[BriteWhiteRam]

Yeah, maybe 1000-1200 with the vanes around 95% to work the truck might be the sweet spot. Personally, on the trucks I have played with, I have set up the ECT vane adder to close the vanes when cold, and then back off when finally warm. Helps warm the truck up plus the owners like the vanes open at idle to get more of an lb7 sound.
BriteWhiteRam - did you purchase a remote start for the lbz? If so what brand? Looking to get one for christmas hopefully

Its an astrostart 2-way, I wish I had waited, you can now get command start that works with your smart phone, I wish I had that now, the 2-way doesn't work unless you're 400' from the truck, which sucks because Im usually over a mile from my truck when Im at work, It would be nice to start it before I got there for about 5mins or so

[killerbee]

Josh, I see no way to regulate zero throttle (idle) rpm between dsp positions. If you have, please feel free to share.

[JoshH]

Josh, I see no way to regulate zero throttle (idle) rpm between dsp positions. If you have, please feel free to share.

I have never done it with a DSP switch, but I have raised idle RPM with the torque based fuel table (B1102) just as I described earlier. I was just playing around a little when I discovered it. Didn't really do much with it, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work with a DSP tune to control idle speed. I would try it, but I don't have a DSP switch in my truck. If someone with a DSP switch wants to test it, I'd be happy to make the changes.

[andrewjamesbond1]

I can tell you by thanksgiving! (... hopefully)

[andrewjamesbond1]

Josh, is there a way you could send me a screenshot of what exactly you did with the Torque Based Fuel? I understand you need to call for more fuel, but unsure of how you set it up exactly.

[killerbee]

You can raise rpm this way. But without predictable results. For example, as soon as you turn on the AC, put the truck in gear, or turn on lights for that matter, rpm will change. Even a different oil weight will change it. That is because this isn't an rpm control technique, but rather fuel control.

As I stated before (for the benefit of anyone who wants to experiment), be aware that changing the LBZ 0 TPS column to non-zero torque or fuel numbers can result in very anomolous fuel pressure loss, and stalling. Losing your power steering at the wrong time can really hurt. Your mileage may vary, but I nearly wet my pants.

[JoshH]

Josh, is there a way you could send me a screenshot of what exactly you did with the Torque Based Fuel? I understand you need to call for more fuel, but unsure of how you set it up exactly.

I'll post a screenshot later this evening. I don't have anything on the computer I'm using right now, but basically what you are doing is raising the fuel quantity at lower torque levels. What happens is the ECM automatically lowers the requested torque level to maintain idle speed. It will lower it all the way down to 0 in an effort to achieve desired idle speed. What you must do is enter a fuel quantity that will be high enough to raise idle speed to your desired level, and extend it out to that RPM in that table. So if you want the truck to idle at 1200 RPM, you would select a fuel quantity (we'll say 25 mm3 will get you where you want). Now you find the row that is at least that much or more. Highlight everything from the upper left corner of the table over to the 1200 RPM column and then down to the row just above the row you previously identified. Now enter 25 into the highlighted region. If the truck doesn't idle at your desired RPM, but your fuel quantity at idle is the value you entered, you will need to raise the fuel quantity a little.

[JoshH]

You can raise rpm this way. But without predictable results. For example, as soon as you turn on the AC, put the truck in gear, or turn on lights for that matter, rpm will change. Even a different oil weight will change it. That is because this isn't an rpm control technique, but rather fuel control.

As I stated before (for the benefit of anyone who wants to experiment), be aware that changing the LBZ 0 TPS column to non-zero torque or fuel numbers can result in very anomolous fuel pressure loss, and stalling. Losing your power steering at the wrong time can really hurt. Your mileage may vary, but I nearly wet my pants.

I agree with you, to a point. If you set the fuel quantity to a point high enough that it can actually start falling back off of the "desired" quantity, it will maintain pretty well with small loads such as the A/C compressor, but I do not recommend using this technique for in gear operation (as I stated earlier). I feel you are purposefully trying to poke holes in this operation for whatever reason, but I promise you that you can get pretty damn close to whatever idle speed you want. I know it isn't an ideal solution, but sometimes you have to work with what's available.

Also, like I stated earlier, nowhere in any of my posts am I recommending anyone to change anything in any of the throttle position tables. Also, just to reiterate, I do NOT recommend driving with a tune you have modified this way. It could be very dangerous and make it difficult for you to stop.