need help with wide band signal to v1 seems to switch up and down

[supershift67]

I have been fighting with trying to tune for a while now but keep coming up short. The problem is the wide band signal to the efilive. It is an lc-1 analog out to the efilive. the afr reading seams to switch up and down from 13 to 20. I checked the voltage coming out of the lc-1 and it seems to be smooth at 2.4 volts but the afr reading while logging the tune goes all over the place. If I hook up a battery to the efilive input it is a rock steady reading. but when the wide band is hooked up it reads lean to rich constantly. even with the wiring unplugged from the efilive there is 1.35 volts coming out of the input with no signal from the wide band. the afr reads 16 with the wide band unhooked. I tried an aem wide band before this lc-1 and it had lean spikes and read erratic also.Is my efilive unit bad or what do you thinK?

[joecar]

What AFR pid are you using (is it from a calc_pids.txt file)...?

Post log file here.

[supershift67]

I am pretty sure that is the afr pid i am using. IT is from the autove tutorial and it has been a while since I set it up. I took a few samples of the wideband reading.problemafr1.efi1.5voltbatterythenunhooked.efiengineoffafr.efi6.0 with ls3 heads.tun
the first post is not running then running, i believe then I showed the battery hooked up then unhooked. I also included the tune I am running for auto ve.autoVE.pid I also included my pid file,sorry the files are all crammed together.

[joecar]

How is your LC-1 connected...?


red:
blue:
brown:
yellow:
black:
white:
green:

( note that the LC-1 black is not a ground )

[supershift67]

red:switched power at ignition switch wiring
blue and white: is grounded at the battery
yellow: is connected to the efilive
brown: is connected to the afr gauge
black :goes to led and push button
white:ground
green:NO green wire
I am not sure i have the lc1 calibrated in the pids correctly. The afr gauge seems to read fairly smooth compared to the afr pid on the efilive.

[joecar]

Reduce your pid channel count to no more than 24 (to get the fastest frame rate).

[joecar]

With the 1.5V battery, what was the voltage with no battery and then with battery...?

Was it just one 1.5V battery...?


Repeat the battery test like this (first remove the LC-1 from V1):
- connect a jumper wire between pins D and E on your V1, then remove jumper wire,
- connect 1.5V battery between same pins,
- connect a second 1.5V battery in series with the first,
- remove both batteries,
- connect jumper wire again, then remove it;

post a log file of this.

[joecar]

Can you try running the LC-1 white wire directly to V1 pin D...?

And then can you also try running the white wire to both ground and V1 pin D...?

[joecar]

Connect your LC-1 to your PC/laptop, run the LM Programmer software, there is a page where you can set filtering on your LC-1, set it to 1/6th...

after the LC-1 finishes programming (takes a few second), remove power from it for a moment, and then power it up and test it.

[joecar]

It looks to me like your LC-1 is not working.