BLK02WS6, lol, thanks for the kind words...
BLK02WS6, lol, thanks for the kind words...
Yes, it is...Originally Posted by n8dogg
Calc.VET uses LTFT's in CL and WB everywhere else.
AutoVE is just a special case of Calc.MAFT with CL/trims disabled (MAF is disabled, VE enabled; corrects the VE).
AutoMAF is just a special case of Calc.VET with CL/trims disabled (VE is disabled, MAF is enabled; corrects the MAF).
No problem Joe - you deserve it! You have been a huge help to me and many others over the years! I have missed tuning the last couple of years - I'm trying to brush up a little even if it is just by helping others and reading. I wish I had the time to do more...BLK02WS6, lol, thanks for the kind words...
I am an engineer by trade - contracting to the Navy for the last 17 years. I tuned as a second job for 6 years, but then I got married, the shop I worked for closed, my wife and I had a baby, and I had to sell my car - not much room for tuning anymore...
GM EFI Tuner
02 WS6 9.41 @ 143 MPH 3675#, drag radials, pump gas, through the mufflers - sold
Joe has helped me out quite a bit. WeathermanShawn is greatly missed, there was not one person here that he did not offer a wealth of knowledge to. Just searching through his posts and threads you will learn a tremendous amount. I'm only a year into tuning, I can tune for bolt ons pretty well. But heads and cam is a new world for me. I don't know anything about the idle tables but I guess it is time to learn.
I'll post up the stock tune when I get a chance.
2002 Z06
Vengeance Racing Stage 5, H/C/I/3.90 diff, 575 hp
2016 Chevy SS M6 (daily driver)
Roto-fab Intake
Yes, we do miss Shawn.
Posting the stock tune isnt going to help you much. I doubt anyone is going to just right you a tune. Follow the advice already given in the thread, then post your current tune with a current log file and then you will get all the help you need. Tuning is one of those things you just have to put the time in to get anything back. If you dont learn the stuff and just copy and paste numbers youll never get anywhere when you have something different pop up. It may take longer to learn the right way but it will be worth it in the end.
If you're concerned about being too lean, guestimate the VE increase % and apply that to your VE table before taking a log;
view your log, you should be able to see if the questimate was good (safely rich), then you can proceed with tuning.
I told him to post up the stock tune and I would help him out with a base tune so that he could at least get it running and get started. I'll give a little summary of what changes I make and why...
GM EFI Tuner
02 WS6 9.41 @ 143 MPH 3675#, drag radials, pump gas, through the mufflers - sold
See the response from BLK02WS6 below.
I'm not trying to have someone else do the work for me. I wouldn't have gotten into tuning to begin with if this was the case. I have never tuned a car for head or cam replacement. If I had all the time in the world I would spend the time to learn it myself, but I don't and time is quite important in this case. SO in response to your comments, I am looking for help on a base-line tune that will allow me to get the engine running and stay running so I can perform a Calc.VET tune as well as fine tune the idle. Through this process I will also get a better understanding of what adjustments are most necessary for heads/cam tuning.
If I have the right idea, the low end of the VE table will actually decrease slightly, there will be a spot in the middle that will remain the same, and the upper portion will increase slightly... Correct? I guess I can do a global % increase that will run over-rich down low, but it is better than running too lean. Then fine tune with the Calc.VET process.
Yup, I plan to do so shortly. Right now the battery is disconnected and the upper half of the engine is apart. Once I start working on it again I will hook the battery up quickly and save the factory tune.
From some of the research I've gathered this may be a good starting point, please correct me if I am wrong and offer up any other pointers/suggestions:
1.) Raise engine idle to 950 in all idle tables... just to start with.
2.) Increase timing across the board 5%-10% in both high and low octane tables.
3.) Perform Calc.VET with WB02 for VE and MAF table tuning.
4.) Fine tune Idle point.
5.) Perform misc. tuning (PE AFR, smooth tables, disable CAT OTP, Fan Temps etc...)
2002 Z06
Vengeance Racing Stage 5, H/C/I/3.90 diff, 575 hp
2016 Chevy SS M6 (daily driver)
Roto-fab Intake
nice job on the VE table
on a big cammed, in fact any cammed engine, you need the spark table "back stop" I've posted in a few threads describing this technique to help stabilise idle droop in a cammed car.
Basically at 600rpm in base spark & main octane table throw in about 30deg and at 400rpm throw in about 40deg. This ramps up idle spark when it droops much more quickly than relying on spark learning. Makes a HUGE difference to idle stability!!!
Also you will need to do the rafig process to setup idle airflow correctly. Cammed engines need more air at idle so when aiming for say 40 to 50 IAC steps you will probably need to open up the TB a wee bit. Remember if you do this you may need to do a TPS reset to keep it in idle mode B5916 below 1.19%. The rafig, TB reset stuff, IAC steps and idle airflow are all done sort of together to obtain a stable idle. Its a bit tricky at first but you'll work it out.
Last edited by The Alchemist; April 26th, 2012 at 09:51 PM.
"Just a tune > yeah right !!!! "
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