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Thread: 2008 LMM DSP5 switch not working.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by drthv8r View Post
    Hello thanks for the reply. Yes I installed the pins in the larger of the 2 connectors. I don't know anybody locally to test my ECM with in their truck. I would think if EFILive 7.5 sees 4.98 volts at the switch that at least the red wire has to be inserted and working properly. I'm including a picture where I ran the ground wire from the switch to the firewall. I'm an electrician by trade so I know a little about wiring although automobile wiring can be a very different animal. I'm sure whatever is wrong with this whole DSP5 switch ordeal is something simple it usually always is but I'm really close to throwing in the towel on this. Posting my troubles here in the forum is pretty much my last resort. Thanks once again.
    I'm not sure what this picture is showing us. Could you explain further?

  2. #12
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    I took the connector off the ECM again and I used a small needle to try to push the pin with the red wire in farther down into the connector. I even smacked it lightly with a hammer, I don't think it can possibly go down in anymore. Still nothing as far as the DSP5 switch goes, when I drive the truck it runs the same no matter what position the switch is in. If the V2 reads the DSP switch voltage at 4.98 volts in the PIDs wouldn't that mean the red wire is in the correct spot and seated correctly? Still nothing changes when I read the DSP5 Tune PIDs it stays at NonDSP no matter what position I turn the switch to. As I said my DSP5 tune was written buy what most say is one of the top tuners in the country, so I would hope the tune was written correctly. This sure has had me stumped. Thanks once again for all the replies.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian1 View Post
    Correct location. I agree not fully seated for starts.
    Brian

  3. #13
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    Hello, if you're referring to the picture where I'm pointing to. That's where I ran the black wire from the DSP5 switch to the firewall. I've heard some are having issues with that pin seating in the ECM connector and suggested running the black wire to a good ground on the truck and not to use that pin in the ECM connector. I figure it's one less pin having to be seated correctly in the ECM connector to worry about.

    Quote Originally Posted by LReiff View Post
    I'm not sure what this picture is showing us. Could you explain further?

  4. #14
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    I see. Maybe that's part of your problem, if the ecm isn't grounded well to the body...

    I always put both pins in the ecm connector, it ain't rocket science.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by drthv8r View Post
    I took the connector off the ECM again and I used a small needle to try to push the pin with the red wire in farther down into the connector. I even smacked it lightly with a hammer, I don't think it can possibly go down in anymore. Still nothing as far as the DSP5 switch goes, when I drive the truck it runs the same no matter what position the switch is in. If the V2 reads the DSP switch voltage at 4.98 volts in the PIDs wouldn't that mean the red wire is in the correct spot and seated correctly? Still nothing changes when I read the DSP5 Tune PIDs it stays at NonDSP no matter what position I turn the switch to. As I said my DSP5 tune was written buy what most say is one of the top tuners in the country, so I would hope the tune was written correctly. This sure has had me stumped. Thanks once again for all the replies.
    Non dsp or 4.98 volts means your wires aren't connected. Ground at the battery and recheck the hole its installed in. Sounds like its fully seated, so its likely the wrong hole.

    Is it in the top or bottom connector?

  6. #16
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    Can you probe the red wire and verify it has 5 volts going through it? If not, you are not making good contact to the pin in the ECM or there is a problem with the ECM. When you installed the pin in the connector, did you slide the little purple pin retainer thing out before pushing the pin in, and have you been pulling it back out when trying to make sure it is fully seated? Assuming you put the pin in the top/larger connector, it looks like you have it in the right spot.

  7. #17
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    Well as you can see it's a bit of rocket science with me...lol. Do you by chance have an LMM? From what I've been reading (and a lot of reading that is) the LMMs can be a bit fickle.

    Quote Originally Posted by LReiff View Post
    I always put both pins in the ecm connector, it ain't rocket science.

  8. #18
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    Hello all. I followed this link in youtube along with a lot of reading. If the link isn't allowed here please remove it, I figured it'll help you guys understand just exactly what I've done. Except for adding the ground wire of course.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MbwQPEDTF8

    I installed the red wire in the large connector. I'll probe the red wire in the morning and make sure the switch has 5 volts, but I thought that reading the PIDs with the V2 did that for me. Thanks for all the replys.

  9. #19
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    Biggest thing is to rotate the pin properly as Monte mentioned in the video. The locking clip of the square pin needs to go towards the center of the harness connector. You should not have to force the pin in, just slide it in and feel it click. If you did not feel it click, then it didn't go in all the way.

    Even after doing a bunch, I make the mistake at times of putting it in the wrong opening.
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  10. #20
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    Hello all. I back probed the red wire and there's no voltage there, so much for believing in the V2 and the PIDs for reading the voltage correctly for me. I guess that's pay back for being lazy and not double checking using a meter. I made sure the red wire went into the correct pin hole and also made sure the locking tab on the red wire was pointed towards the center line of the connector. I didn't force it when it went in originally and it went in pretty far I've just been using things to try to push it down into the connector more since I couldn't get anything to work thinking maybe it just wasn't seated down far enough and making a loose contact. I'll try to get the pin back out without pulling the pin off the wire and see what's going on with it.

    I guess I'm down to the locking pin not being inserted the correct way, the ECM has a dead spot where the pin connects to (that would be my luck) or the pin on the end of the wire isn't making contact with the red wire. Monte made an excellent detailed video and I thank him for that. I guess the one good thing with all this is I can now remove the ECM connectors blindfolded...lol. Thanks once again for all the feedback.

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