Too small of a supercharger after dyno results

[JOHNGEAR]

This is where it was loosing boost(regulating it) as I have one installed on each plenum riser. I disabled it by tightening the springs to coil bind. Now(after a few runs) at 12# boost I think I hear the belt slip. Great, another issue.

[JOHNGEAR]

Hello all.
I found a way to eliminate the belt slippage (yea!) I added another idler pulley that has an adjustment slot so I release the tensioner and position the new idler pulley down the slot against the belt to tighten it then let the tensioner apply pressure as it should and BAM! it works. I attached the tune and log from a cold start through the test and back home. Take a look (13850) and you will see I hit 171 on the map (=10lbs boost) but I wonder if the blow off valve is now regulating the boost. Still, if I go more on boost I will need to change the injectors because they hit 84%. The pulley should do 16lbs but my best try this run I was entering the highway off a merge and it was a little hairy with the snow on the ground(I was in 4x4).
I know my other post stated I hit 10 and 12 lbs but I now see it is an incorrect boost gauge.

[JOHNGEAR]

jut realized, it could be a pressure drop from the inter-cooler. Feedback?

[ScarabEpic22]

What diameter IC pipe and what kind of IC do you have? I dont know much about ICs, just that you want them to have as little restriction as possible.

[JOHNGEAR]

Sorry about not responding right away(work things) but to answer your question it go as follows: out of the V1 super charger=2.75" into 3" air to water cooler out 3" reduces to 2.5" then into a Vortech LTI elbow(3"-4" oval and stays 4"oval into the BBK twin 58mm throttle body.
I could redo the run after the cooler(removing the 2.5" change to 3") but would that be my restriction?
I have heard that the cooler will produce some pressure drop.
I attached the specs on the cooler and elbow to over look, thanks for your interest though.

Vortech LT1 Intake Elbow Kits
Replace the OE rubber intake elbow with Vortech's Aluminum LT1 Intake Elbow Kit. These elbows are a must for forced induction and will improve airflow on all applications. Includes aluminum intake, rubber sleeve adapters, and hose clamps
Water to Air Intercooler, 12.25"x12.25"x4.5", Bend I/O (Type 14)
[INT000214]

This impressive Liquid/Air intercooler is better than any FMIC.
100% Lightweight aluminum, No Epoxy Used In Core
Recommended for up to 700 CFM / 600 HP
Pressure Drop: Less than 0.1 PSI. This is not a typo! Liquid/Air Intercoolers have incredibly low pressure drop.
Air Inlet/Outlet: 3.0"
Water Inlet/Outlet: 1/2" NPT
Maximum water/air pressure: 70 PSI
Core Size: 10.5"x6"x4.5" (Endtanks add to length)
The inlet and outlet on this intercooler are located at a 90 degree angle for cramped installations.
Note: The water inlet and outlet on most water/air intercoolers are BPT threads. BPT fittings are difficult to find in the United States, so ours all come with NPT threads.

[Mr. P.]

I'm envious that you have no KR!

You short-changed your combo; according to your log, when you got to 5300-RPM you began backing your foot out of the throttle hence reducing MAP - in other words, you made 10.4-lbs of boost at only 5300-RPM!! You may find that you have to really spin that blower (6000 engine RPM?) with 100% WOT to see what MAP reading the combo is really capable of. I bet it will go 12-13 lbs.

And your IATs are similar to what I see on my truck, lower IATs are always better but I wouldn't spend money on an intercooler swap just yet...

The injector data looks suspect to me - you say you're running 60# injectors but if so I would not expect an IDC of 85% (on my truck at 10-psi my IDC is only in the 50's...) Also, I'm assuming you're using a Walbro 255 fuel pump? Beware, you're approaching the point where that pump may not fuel the truck, I've suffered a couple fuel PSI "drop-outs" at around 12# boost on my setup (time for twin-pumps :/)

The pics of your headers, how big are the primaries on those? At least 1-7/8" I hope?

The Ysi is a bad mofo - if I were to upgrade, that's the one I'd probably go to.

- Steve.

PS - I'd consider the elbow, for reliability's sake.

[JOHNGEAR]

Hello.
Thanks for your comments, they are reassuring. Yes I did come off the throttle a bit so that there could be it. I will do it again (all out) to see what it comes up with and post the log.
Another note though, I have been having problems with my alternator not wanting to charge untill I run hard and it self excites. I have changed it and tested them both and all results are good. This is confusing to say the least. I checked the following:left key in run (light on) and unplugged connector (light off)-changed to another good tested and same results-wonder it the amp gauge needs replacing?
Also, I am just learning how to use the hand held V2 so not to require a lap top all of the time and wanted to do a RAFIPN/RAFIG test log and this is what I came up with. Question is, why is the RAFIPN/RAFIG not available when slecting PIDs?
Anyway, please look over the log and provide any thoughts on what I did wrong/good and I will do it again, thanks.
Mr.P, thanks for your comments. The headers are 1-7/8" into a true 2.5" duels. Yes I do have a booster pump 255 with a Vortech FMU (4:1)
The injectors I am using are--(58psi)
EV14 fuel injectors, rated 47lbs/hr @43.5 psi
Actual flow rate is 52lbs/hr 550cc,13 Ohms
635cc/min, 60 lbs/hr @ 58 psi
Thanks again.

[darcy]

Just open the log and double click the RAFIG / RAFPN pids and they will be selected and data calculated for them.

[joecar]

If RAFIG and/or RAFPN have a red X thru them, then on either of those pids do rightclick->More Info, this shows what other pid is blocking (needs to be seleted).