lc-1 pid at idle

[joecar]

i read on the sticky here that white goes to green which goes to flashscan D location, is this right?

Either or both of the green and white wires can go to FlashScan pin D.

I previously had green and white tied together, but now I have them separate and I get the same results
(I get out the same test voltages (+/- 0.1V) that I program into the LC-1).

This is what I now did with mine... http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.ph...8&postcount=47

[mtnman]

disconnected the black wire from ground, no change

disconnected the white wire from ground and

wb02 v is 1.3, wb02 afr is 11.31. i dont have the voltmeter on me, couldnt find it

[joecar]

disconnected the black wire from ground, no change

disconnected the white wire from ground and

wb02 v is 1.3, wb02 afr is 11.31. i dont have the voltmeter on me, couldnt find it

Is the LED flashing...?
You have to wait for LED to stop flashing.

Edit: Disconnect power to LC-1 for a moment, then reconnect it, wait for LED to stop flashing, then look at AD2.

[mtnman]

ok, now the wb02 is showing 0.7 volts and 9.55 afr.

for the sae pid calcs you gave me and 0.88333 afr at 10v and 4.216 at 20afr

[Tordne]

Isn't a reading of .7 invalid (out of range) then if .8xxx is suposed to be the minimum?

[joecar]

Isn't a reading of .7 invalid (out of range) then if .8xxx is suposed to be the minimum?

That's correct it's invalid (out of range);
minimum is 0.883V as shown in the picture of the LC-1 programming application.

mtnman something's wrong, you really need a DMM here...

[mtnman]

[joecar]

Where did you buy your LC-1 from...?
Innovate will repair them, sometimes free of charge.

If you have it out of the vehicle, do a bench test:
lay it on your bench, and tape all the wires down (so that they don't short);
connect:
LED across black and white
red to 12V (car battery)
blue to ground (car battery)
serial to PC/laptop

program LC-1 to put out 2.5V flatline,
remove power for a moment, reconnect power
wait for LED to stop flashing;

measure between brown and green for 2.5V,
and between brown and white for 2.5V.

If you don't get see both of these, you need to have it repaired.

It is very important to NOT allow the brown and yellow wires to short to ANYTHING as this will kill the LC-1.

[mtnman]

The values did change a bit after I changed the ground for the blue wire. Even though something's still screwed, do all the hookups look right? :

green ->to flashscan
brown to flashscan
yellow not hookedup
white not hooked up
black to led and pushbutton (pushbutton and led to ground)
red to switched power supply

I forgot to mention that I had to reattach the the wires for the serial in and serial out connectors. I know the wires are securely attached. Are the connectors the same internally, although one is marked in and one is marked out? Could I have these backwards. I wouldnt think that they're different.

[mtnman]

Where did you buy your LC-1 from...?
Innovate will repair them, sometimes free of charge.

If you have it out of the vehicle, do a bench test:
lay it on you bench, and tape all the wires down (so that they don't short);
connect:
LED across black and white
red to 12V (car battery)
blue to ground (car battery)
serial to PC/laptop

program LC-1 to put out 2.5V flatline,
remove power for a moment, reconnect power
wait for LED to stop flashing;

measure between brown and green for 2.5V,
and between brown and white for 2.5V.

If you don't get see both of these, you need to have it repaired.

It is very important to NOT allow the brown and yellow wires to short to ANYTHING as this will kill the LC-1.

Thanks JoeCar, I'll do some testing on the exit volts of the wires after i find the voltmeter.