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Thread: lc-1 pid at idle

  1. #21
    Senior Member WicketMike's Avatar
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    im having a very similar problem (maybe the same)

    i bought mine from dynotune. where did you get yours?

    98' White TA A4 TSP 231/237 PP Stage II 59cc heads
    401rwhp (unlocked) 1.594 60'-11.60 e.t.-116.98 mph
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    98' Sport Gold Metallic TA M6 - 13.39 e.t. Bone Stock
    My Trans Ams
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    2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 5.3L LS4 (wifes car) stock (for now)

  2. #22
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnman
    The values did change a bit after I changed the ground for the blue wire. Even though something's still screwed, do all the hookups look right? :

    green ->to flashscan
    brown to flashscan
    yellow not hookedup
    white not hooked up
    black to led and pushbutton (pushbutton and led to ground)
    red to switched power supply
    ...and blue to battery ground, I presume;
    yes, these look correct;
    when engine is running, measure voltage on red wire wrt blue wire, should be better than 12V.

    I forgot to mention that I had to reattach the the wires for the serial in and serial out connectors. I know the wires are securely attached. Are the connectors the same internally, although one is marked in and one is marked out? Could I have these backwards. I wouldnt think that they're different.
    If you have these backwards, the Windows LC-1 programming application won't find the LC-1 and you won't see the programmed voltages as you posted earlier.

  3. #23
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WicketMike
    im having a very similar problem (maybe the same)

    i bought mine from dynotune. where did you get yours?
    See if it passes the "bench test"; if it doesn't, contact Innovate to see what they can do for you.

    I bought mine from Innovate's website.

  4. #24
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnman
    Thanks JoeCar, I'll do some testing on the exit volts of the wires after i find the voltmeter.
    You're welcome. Let us know what you see.

  5. #25
    Senior Member mtnman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecar
    ...and blue to battery ground, I presume;
    yes, these look correct;
    when engine is running, measure voltage on red wire wrt blue wire, should be better than 12V.
    No, I have the blue wire connected to chassis ground (the body of the truck).
    2003 2500HD,E-Fans, LT headers, Corsa catback, Outlaw intake.

  6. #26
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnman
    No, I have the blue wire connected to chassis ground (the body of the truck).
    With your DMM, measure the voltage between the battery negative terminal and the blue wire (may need 2 people to do this).

  7. #27
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    And also do this...

    when engine is running, measure voltage on red wire wrt blue wire, should be better than 12V.

  8. #28
    Senior Member mtnman's Avatar
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    I measured voltage between the brown and green wires, 1.32 volts. Havent measured other voltages yet, because other wires are behind the dash. I'll keep ya posted.

    Joecar, when we're done with troubleshooting this, it may be a good idea to append this (type of troubleshooting) to the lc-1 install manual.
    Last edited by mtnman; March 3rd, 2006 at 03:21 AM.
    2003 2500HD,E-Fans, LT headers, Corsa catback, Outlaw intake.

  9. #29
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Programmed for flatline 2.5V and you see 1.32V across brown and green...?

    Doesn't look good, but we'll see what the other voltages are (brown and white, red and blue).

    Good idea, we'll get some kind of troubleshooting steps added.

  10. #30
    Senior Member mtnman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecar
    Programmed for flatline 2.5V and you see 1.32V across brown and green...?
    That is correct.
    2003 2500HD,E-Fans, LT headers, Corsa catback, Outlaw intake.

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