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Thread: Advice needed, please take a look to my tune

  1. #21
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Need to operate the throttle smoother/longer.

  2. #22
    Senior Member DocZ28's Avatar
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    I´m using g/k/kpa, here is the tune file, with the changes.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #23
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    I ran out of time today, I'll look at it tomorrow.

  4. #24
    Senior Member DocZ28's Avatar
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    Don´t worry Joe, take your time, I really appreciate it.

    Yesterday I take a new log but this in my car where I now that in CL the VE is not so bad, and I have the same result, When the gauge is showing 13.5 to 14.5 AFR, the scan tool shows low reads 7 the lowest and 10 the highest. With a DMM check the volts in yellow wire and is similar to what the scan tool readings from .1v to 1v. But it suppose to be from 1v to 5v? and the other output from the lc-1 the one that goes to the gauge is between 1 to 5v.

    So could I have a bad config. in pid txt?
    Any advice will be helpful.

  5. #25
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    It should range form 0V to 5V...

  6. #26
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    red: to switched 12v
    blue: to ground
    brown: to white wire of the gauge
    yellow: to gauge and v1 device
    black: to led and push botton and botton to ground
    white: to ground and black wire of the gauge
    green: it does not have green.
    You want the LC-1 brown wire to go to V1 (not the yellow one)...

    ( if you don't want to swap wires, you can reprogram the LC-1 using the LM Programmer software... but if you do this you have to make a mental note to remember this. )

    Also, does the gauge need both yellow and brown wires (the LC-1 user manual shows only yellow going to the gauge)...?

  7. #27
    New Member C5Z0SIX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecar View Post
    You want the LC-1 brown wire to go to V1 (not the yellow one)...

    ( if you don't want to swap wires, you can reprogram the LC-1 using the LM Programmer software... but if you do this you have to make a mental note to remember this. )

    Also, does the gauge need both yellow and brown wires (the LC-1 user manual shows only yellow going to the gauge)...?
    The DB gauge wiring only receives the brown wire signal from the LC1 according to the innovate installation guide, but wiring the brown lc1 wire to the v1 might solve the problem since they have different voltages.
    Last edited by C5Z0SIX; October 17th, 2012 at 06:58 AM.

  8. #28
    New Member C5Z0SIX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocZ28 View Post
    Don´t worry Joe, take your time, I really appreciate it.

    Yesterday I take a new log but this in my car where I now that in CL the VE is not so bad, and I have the same result, When the gauge is showing 13.5 to 14.5 AFR, the scan tool shows low reads 7 the lowest and 10 the highest. With a DMM check the volts in yellow wire and is similar to what the scan tool readings from .1v to 1v. But it suppose to be from 1v to 5v? and the other output from the lc-1 the one that goes to the gauge is between 1 to 5v.

    So could I have a bad config. in pid txt?
    Any advice will be helpful.
    Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39

  9. #29
    Senior Member DocZ28's Avatar
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    Thank for your time Joe a to you C5 . I made a mistake when typing.

    This is how is rigth now:
    RED: to switched 12v
    BLUE: to ground
    WHITE: to ground
    YELLOW: to V1 device (volts 0v-1.1v)
    BROWN: to gauge (volts 1v-5v)
    BLACK: to led and botton to ground

    The LC-1 manual says the gauge only needs one wire from the controller and is the brown wire.
    So correct me if I´m wrong. I have two options:
    1. Reprogram the LC-1 or
    2. Route the brown wire from LC-1 to gauge and to v1 device

  10. #30
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Do option #1 (reprogram the LC-1).

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