yep, your right. just checked an LLY tune and sure enough it is "forward"
so the above logged figures only applies to 26 gallon LB7 (maybe gas rigs too) trucks
yep, your right. just checked an LLY tune and sure enough it is "forward"
so the above logged figures only applies to 26 gallon LB7 (maybe gas rigs too) trucks
2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
Sold - 2004 LB7 Duramax, EFI Live with DSP5 Tune
stage 4 SC transmission, 265/70/16 tires
just logged voltage per gallon on the 34 gallon tank in my LMM.
now, trying to input the values in the tune and having major issues. whoever decided on the values to use for volts in the tune at GM should be shot. why would the values drop from 5.0 volts to 2.502 volts then more reasonably from there. there is a whole lot of range between those values that is needed for accurately rescaling the gauge. well i am going to try putting some of the logged values into the tune and see what it does. just wish it was more like the LB7. that one has more values than needed.
anyone, Hint, Hint: Ross, Paul, Cindy, know if those voltage values in {F0101} can be changed to something more usable?
2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
Sold - 2004 LB7 Duramax, EFI Live with DSP5 Tune
stage 4 SC transmission, 265/70/16 tires
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD CCSB
Well, not being able to get my gauge working properly and running out of fuel before the light came on i decided to replace the sender.
this is what i used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter-3...a057df&vxp=mtr
it has the needed 30-240 ohm range. i set it up in the tank last night so that it at empty it is at 1.9 volts and at full it is 0.7 volts. this allows my to avoid the stupid GM calibration section in F0101 and get a smooth drop all the way to E. i know i will have less figures to work with but i dont think that will be a problem. now i just need to run the tank dry and do the one gallon at a time fill/logging
i dont think my logged data will be of any value to any of you unless you also install the Auto Meter 3262 and set it up like mine
anyways, i will let you know how it works out
2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
Sold - 2004 LB7 Duramax, EFI Live with DSP5 Tune
stage 4 SC transmission, 265/70/16 tires
Did anyone ever chart their voltages on the large tank LMM? I need to know what to expect for a 2008 Silverado Duramax CCLB. I am only getting down to 1.137 Volts at a full tank. Before I get in there and bend the float arm I would like to know what other people are getting
It would be nice if the float dropped lower to get rid of the reporting empty with 10+ gallons left. The float needs to drop closer to the bottom in my opinion which would also push the sensor higher and get to a lower voltage on the full end. These things seem to be all over the place from reading posts on the net. The universal theme is that they all report empty way too soon. Knowing the voltages on a good working truck that is to OEM specs would be helpful. I am not sure if I need a mechanical fix or just a tune adjustment. The voltages won't change regardless of the tune, so that is better than a percentage calculated.
I know the full can be fixed easily, but that won't do anything for when the float gets to the bottom and cannot drop any further. It is still about 3/4" from the bottom when the tank is dry. I did not measure it when I should have putting the sump in, but the float was right there so I could see it. I don't know if this is where it normally stops.
Mine is only going to 88% at full when topped all the way to the fuel cap. I am waiting for the tuner to set it for the large tank instead of the small tank. He says this will fix it, but that would mean the full voltage on the small tank vs the big tank is different. Not sure... I am not sure if the full voltage changes between the two tank sizes. Unfortunately I am using locked tunes and cannot change anything even though I have everything to do it :(
Boo hoo
i have the stock charted values (unbent float arm) somewhere, i'll see if i can find them for you.
it is highly likely that my sensor was not working right. if i recall correctly, i was only able to see about 1/2~3/4 of the voltage range available. also, my float did go all the way to the top of the tank, or close to it, and all the way down to the bottom. i thought about bending the arm too, but if i am not mistaken, it would have prevented the float from reaching the top of the tank or reading full for a very long time. the only way i saw making it work was to extend the arm longer, thus changing it out for an aftermarket sensor
2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
Sold - 2004 LB7 Duramax, EFI Live with DSP5 Tune
stage 4 SC transmission, 265/70/16 tires
Yeah. I may be in for a new sending unit. But I am going to load the tune with the proper size tank and the go from there. I have not looked at the shape of the arm vs. tank to see what bend might work. If you can bend the float down in a way that the float can still go all the way to the top without the wire hitting the top of the tank first, then it will be at a higher position at the sending unit and therefore at the desired lower voltage and drop lower on the tank to help with the low fuel report when there is lots of fuel left. The voltage at the empty side will not change as long as the float does not actually bottom out on the tank. There is plenty of room to go down without that happening. They set these things pretty high off the bottom if my truck is a typical setup.