setting B3618 PE AFR with cam and supporting mods

[maudyZ28]

Interesting as you have LS6 heads I read an article doing dyno testing, the 2 quench zone make for a faster burn requiring less timing for same power. They ran 22-28 deg of timing with same fueling and saw only an increase of power by 5 hp at 24* at WOT (6000 rpm).

I've dropped mine down from aggressive 28* at WOT with 12.6 fueling to 22* on 12.9-13.0 for the 1/4 mile and I run with no knock etc to test the tune this year. Cant tell any different when driving and 1/4 miles are same times if not better MPH (street tyres stil spinning on line).

[myws6formula]

I'm curious how your wot fueling looks on the WB, I'm all ears on the timing as well and will def give it a try

[BLK02WS6]

Looking at the log: Your wideband is definitely messing up - should not be oscillating like that! You may have a ground issue... Need to figure that out first off. Also, why didn't you log spark advance? you should always log that... You are getting some knock when you went WOT. Your LTFTs are adding fuel at WOT too.

Looking at the tune: Your VE table is a mess - spikes and dips all over the place. Your MAF table is a mess too - not smooth at all. I would set the PE up a little differently than you have it. Where did you get the data on the injectors? Your timing table is pretty good, but I would lower the WOT areas down a couple degrees until you put it on the dyno and see what it wants (because you have LS6 heads).

I know I threw a bunch of stuff out there - and please know that I'm not trying to be a jerk! Are you in progress on the VE and MAF? You have to do a whole lot more smoothing on those tables when you make changes...

I can make some changes to the tune for you and post it back up if you want me too - let me know. Can you try to figure out the wideband problem? that has to be right before you go on...

[myws6formula]

I'm more than happy to take the advise. and if you want to make some tweeks it would be great.

the WB has me confused and im hoping its a ground issue and isn't toast. it stopped working it just reported a steady reading no matter what. I was able to figure out the plug to the V1 screw backed out on the one terminals. (it says in the instructions not to disconnect while in use???) it also set a code 8 for the heater control but after fixing the connection it worked and I performed a fresh air cal to make sure the sensor was in check but now its reporting oddly.

I grabbed the injector data from the ASA tune

[myws6formula]

went from my lc1 ground to the cig ground and was basically nothing and would toggle at 00.0 - 00.1 ohms and going to battery neg does the same. since the alt is low and semi hard to reach I ran a AC ripple test at the battery and im only getting 0.17v some 0.20v

do you think the WB sensor is bad? or do you think the WB controller is done?

[maudyZ28]

BLK02WS6 - I've looked over the tune before and the injector data etc are all correct from the ASA tune that run the 'big white' grand prix injectors - I run the same - they are 36 lb/hr but thats NOT at 58 psi - the ASA tune is correct - i've previously posted and calculated injector flows multiple ways, tables and tunes and that is what they report. With regards to the VE, it is spiky but as myws6formula posted in another thread, this was after a WB tune so the dipped cells are the ones that were hit when driving and the high ones were not. I had previously reported that the LTFT were NOT dissabled and these NEED to be, in order to tune the VE or the MAF.

myws6formula - go back to the original tune where you had the car running rich before you applied the VE corrections, make sure the WB is functioning correct and do a free air cal with it OUT of the exhaust if you can - or after it has been left overnight, residual fuel left if you do it after driving. Then, from that tune dissable the fuel trims and tune either the MAF or VE table, follow the AUTOVE tutorial, thats all you need. Drive steady and smooth for a while and try hit as many cells - you'll never hit them all, not physically possible.
Next, apple the corrections, as done before (you had done this correct) - This will make the VE or MAF possibly a little spiky, but it should NOT be ittatic with massive highs and lows, each cell that is corrected should have a reasonable smooth transition into the other cells you;ve hit. It wont smoothly match the cell you DIDNT hit. There are 2 ways to go from here.

1) as BLK02WS6 - you can smooth the cells - (various ways to do) - I personally do this manually - I make a table with the BEN correction factors and in the cells I didnt hit I interpolate the solutions between the cells I did hit - you can you the smooth function in EFIlive but sometimes it changes the cells you have corrected, so effectively making them wrong again. As for the MAF I believe this should be more smooth as it simply measures the air flow increase and should increase smoothly

2) Although the VE or MAF doesnt look nice, if the cells you have hit are smooth with other cells you hit (as said above), and you have tried your very best to hit as many as possible, then leave the VE as you will NEVER hit the other cells when driving so these high spots will never actually be used when driving.

I personally did a massive tune and interpolated all the solutions so they were smooth and the car ran constant 14.8 on the WB with a +/-0.1 fluctuation in normal drivng. The WB was strong and reported 12.8 all the way up until 6000 rpm where it richened upto 12.2 as I didnt originally tune this high as I had a new 2nd hand auto box and didnt tune past 6k but after 6 months I took it to 6500 rpm. Now it is corrected I run 12.8 accross the board.

I changed the injectors to the ASA ones and did a retune to check and the VE shifted slightly, although it shouldn't be it did, only a few %. So I ONLY retuned the cells that I hit at the strip and normal driving as they are only a few % out and my VE is now NOT perfectly smooth aws it was before, but the WB holds steady at 15.1 now (changed in my tune to this AFR for economy) and 13.0 in 1/4 mile.

[myws6formula]

sounds good I will go back to the original starting point. sounds like you think the WB is fine but just do another fresh air to make sure? should I adjust the timing down while im at it?

thanks for the help guys.

[myws6formula]

this is the revised PID I wanted to use with CalcVET Calc.VET tuning B.pid



also I see you say to do autove I was doing the CalcVET

[maudyZ28]

this is the revised PID I wanted to use with CalcVET Calc.VET tuning B.pid



also I see you say to do autove I was doing the CalcVET

i'll have a look and see when i'm on my tuning laptop.

I personally just do autoVE as I have a wide band and dont need the MAF calibrating as I run OLSD. (open loop speed density). I havent looked into the calcVET and this is why your tune may differ. As far as my bit of understanding goes, it uses LTFT or similar for low rpm and low map to calc the VE and then uses only the WB for the high rpm and WOT situations? But dont quote me on this. The AutoVE tutorial is good that it tells you all the PIDs to use and the step by step tune changes. I think the calcVET has this too but i've not personally looked at it.

[joecar]

this is the revised PID I wanted to use with CalcVET Calc.VET tuning B.pid



also I see you say to do autove I was doing the CalcVET

Do Calc.VET initially to get VE and MAF tables close... and then do AutoVE if necessary.

From your pid list remove GM.CYLAIR_DMA and add HO2S11/HO2S21 (the front NBO2 voltages)...

make sure to keep pid channel count no bigger than 24 channels (see bottom of PIDs tab in scantool).


Post your calc_pids.txt file.