LQ9 wont stay running after FAST LSXrt 102mm tb/intake swap...HELP?

[joecar]

Yes I did, and from all I can tell the intake is completely sealed to the heads.

But if it is an internal air leak how can I check for that without ripping the entire intake apart and detaching the runners and rtving them etc?

I'm not sure... there are some threads regarding this on ls1tech.

[sac811]

I'm not sure... there are some threads regarding this on ls1tech.

does it make any sense that none of the problems described take place before its up to operating temperature only once its there?

[joecar]

does it make any sense that none of the problems described take place before its up to operating temperature only once its there?

Partly.

And tha you said it run fine before the intake swap.

What you see in the logs cannot be accounted for by an intake swap.

[sac811]

Partly.

And tha you said it run fine before the intake swap.

What you see in the logs cannot be accounted for by an intake swap.

Guess i'm going to pull it all apart and rtv anything that has a seal to make sure it seals up right.

Annoying as hell, cause this intake already required a lot more than it should have to install in the first place. At least it will be easier this time though.

[DocZ28]

Guess i'm going to pull it all apart and rtv anything that has a seal to make sure it seals up right.

Annoying as hell, cause this intake already required a lot more than it should have to install in the first place. At least it will be easier this time though.

I have a similar problem with a FAST intake, it was leaking from the upper shield. It appers to be a common problem, I use a rvt to seal it and no more leaks.

[sac811]

should I still be attempting to get my Idle air control sensor to be between 40 and 60 steps?

[sac811]

should I still be attempting to get my Idle air control sensor to be between 40 and 60 steps?

Well just went for a ride in the truck after RTVing EVERYTHING that you possibly can other than the throttle body to the actual intake, and it appears I still have the same problem...just not as bad as before.

Not as much hanging rpm causing cruise control effect, but still there some.
Sometimes high rev from gear change
Sometimes random rev, come down, rev a little less then die.

But I did notice one thing when it does this my IAC steps are always 0 steps. With the idle set screw all the unscrewed (aka metal to metal stop contact without no gap from screw), the steps are between 5-10. But the throttle cable and cruise cable are too short to be able to let it completely touch. So the cable holds the blade a hair from complete close.

But with the 5-10 steps back in IAC it seems to run better.

Any ideas as to how to adjust the cables for more IAC steps? or some other way of having higher IAC counts?

I think this could be the key to my problem.

Only other place I can think of that MAY not seal correctly and that I could RTV are the Injectors. They are just pushed down in their spots and hold on with brackets, even using the FAST injector O-rings (which I am using) they are no where near as snug as they were in the original intake.

Any help or other ideas?

Honestly otherwise I will just put the stock intake back on and throw this piece of garbage intake away.

[joecar]

IAC always zero: PCM is trying to reduce air but IAC is pegged at zero... too much air is getting around the throttle blade.

Check that you have the correct injector o-rings and that they are lubed during install.

[sac811]

I am attempting to log llong term fuel trims what else do I need to log other than long term fuel trim averages for it to show up?

[joecar]

Try the RAFIG procedure to see how close it is.