Manual vs Auto

[joecar]

...

I also attached screen shots of the VE table in my current tune showing the properties-
This stuff is what trips me up- The table clearly shows 'MAP kPA' but the properties shows otherwise.
When I change it to g*K/kPa, the display remains the same. How does one know when these need to be changed and to what unit of measure?
...
Attachment 21777
Attachment 21778

In VE_DIsplay.pdf, look at upper right, look at Units:, set this to g*K/kPa
( Edit->Properties->Display and under Volumetric Efficiency Units ).



In CALC.VET_Table.pdf, look at upper left, you see the button n is clicked (n means number of hits)...
click the button x-bar (x-bar means each cell has the average value of all the hits in that cell).

[ezobens]

I'll eventually get the hang of this!
As is often the case, the answer is right in front of me.
Thank you for pointing out what should have been the obvious.

I've attached my revised screen shots and the numbers look MUCH better now! lol
I will play with the RAFIG this weekend and I'll have to wait to do a 'real' Calc.VET when weather permits.
Thank you again and I'll chime back in when I have some more useful data.
Elm

CALC.VET and VE Table_revisions.pdf

[ezobens]

I've had a productive weekend playing with the RAFIG process and getting my idle dialed-in.
While I still have some work to do, it is MUCH better than just a few days ago-
I can even blip the throttle now without fear of the engine stalling (once I get into operating range).
Cold start from 40 degrees F is still a little choppy but I think I'll have it licked soon.

I did have several questions on the process and some other observations:

My FIRST TPI throttle body (mono blade) has no 'bypass' hole in the throttle blade-
The OEM TPI and LT1 throttle bodies do have a .150" bypass hole (not in the blade however).
I'm running into a situation where I have to crack the throttle open a fair amount to keep my 1100 RPM idle fairly smooth but I believe I'm out of adjustment from a TPS perspective. I've bent brackets and slotted the holes as far as I can but I still can't seem to get it in the 'acceptable' range for the PCM.
What is the maximum voltage at the TPS I can have and still zero out the TPS %?
Seems if I go any more than 0.6V or so, I can no longer reset the TPS % to zero.
It appears my only other option is to drill a hole in the throttle blade so I can get the TPS within range-
As it sits right now, the lowest I can get the IAC counts at a warm idle is about 60-65.
Thoughts?

Also, I am running a 160 degree thermostat in this motor and I question if this may be contributing to my tuning challenges.
Would you recommend I go to a 180 thermostat or is this a non-issue? The 409 SBC in the C3 Corvette makes for a hot engine compartment so I've been running the 160 thermostat since the carburetor days.

RAFIG logging-
The doc states to run a histogram and then get the average for each temperature slice that corresponds to the B4307 table.
I stumbled across a RAFIG MAP that already exists in EFI Live (attached), is there any reason why I can't just use that to get the averages vs the histogram? The MAP seems to be a much cleaner solution (if it does what I need it to do).

Finally, just trying to get a sanity check on my WB O2 readings-
When I start the car from cold (40 F), the logs indicate a lean condition (17 -19) but the exhaust smells pretty rich.
Once it warms up and is in it's normal range, the AFR numbers seem to level out more in the 14 - 15 range and the exhaust isn't nearly as rich.
Is this due to my 110 LSA, high-ish overlap (57 degrees @ .006) cam? Is there anything I need to be concerned about and/or a way to lean it out a bit when it's cold so my eyes aren't burning?
I've attached my latest log file from today in case you wanted to take a peek.

Any insight or advice on the above points would be most appreciated.
Thank you again for your time,
Elm

RAFIG MAP.pdf
Log_Idle_01212018.1.efi

[ezobens]

No thoughts on any of the above or am I putting the cart before the horse since I have yet to complete CALC.VET?
Thank you,
Elm

[joecar]

I'm still catching up...

[ezobens]

No worries.
With the weather the way it is up this way, I've got nothing but time.
Elm

[joecar]

Sorry, I have been sick the last 3 days...

[joecar]

...

I did have several questions on the process and some other observations:

My FIRST TPI throttle body (mono blade) has no 'bypass' hole in the throttle blade-
The OEM TPI and LT1 throttle bodies do have a .150" bypass hole (not in the blade however).
I'm running into a situation where I have to crack the throttle open a fair amount to keep my 1100 RPM idle fairly smooth but I believe I'm out of adjustment from a TPS perspective. I've bent brackets and slotted the holes as far as I can but I still can't seem to get it in the 'acceptable' range for the PCM.
What is the maximum voltage at the TPS I can have and still zero out the TPS %?
Seems if I go any more than 0.6V or so, I can no longer reset the TPS % to zero.
It appears my only other option is to drill a hole in the throttle blade so I can get the TPS within range-
As it sits right now, the lowest I can get the IAC counts at a warm idle is about 60-65.
Thoughts?

I don't remember the voltage, but it looks like you have hit it at 0.6V.
If you drill a hole, make it smaller than you think, take a log and analyse; then increase the diameter if necessary, but go cautiously.

Also, I am running a 160 degree thermostat in this motor and I question if this may be contributing to my tuning challenges.
Would you recommend I go to a 180 thermostat or is this a non-issue? The 409 SBC in the C3 Corvette makes for a hot engine compartment so I've been running the 160 thermostat since the carburetor days.

In your logs, what temperature do you see...? Is it sufficient for CL mode to activate...?

Also, are there any other temperature-based tables in your tune that might be affected by running a lower temperature...?

Typically LSx's like 180-190*F and SBC's like 160-170*F (or so).

RAFIG logging-
The doc states to run a histogram and then get the average for each temperature slice that corresponds to the B4307 table.
I stumbled across a RAFIG MAP that already exists in EFI Live (attached), is there any reason why I can't just use that to get the averages vs the histogram? The MAP seems to be a much cleaner solution (if it does what I need it to do).

No reason not to.

Finally, just trying to get a sanity check on my WB O2 readings-
When I start the car from cold (40 F), the logs indicate a lean condition (17 -19) but the exhaust smells pretty rich.
Once it warms up and is in it's normal range, the AFR numbers seem to level out more in the 14 - 15 range and the exhaust isn't nearly as rich.
Is this due to my 110 LSA, high-ish overlap (57 degrees @ .006) cam? Is there anything I need to be concerned about and/or a way to lean it out a bit when it's cold so my eyes aren't burning?
I've attached my latest log file from today in case you wanted to take a peek.

Any unburnt fuel (meaning unburnt oxygen) registers lean on any O2 sensor (WB and NB)...
so yes, cam's overlap lets unburnt fuel pass into exhaust, and when engine is cold that does not ignite, so WB senses lean...
the usual trick is to keep this in mind when tuning VE/MAF tables, and to remove some air in the idle areas.

Any insight or advice on the above points would be most appreciated.
Thank you again for your time,
Elm

RAFIG MAP.pdf
Log_Idle_01212018.1.efi

I'm still looking thru your log file.

[ezobens]

Thanks Joe!
I was thinking of starting with an 1/8" hole in the throttle blade and see if that gives me a more comfortable range to play with.
In my logs, the car tends to run below 170 at idle and the fan on- I can force it higher with the fan unplugged.
While I 'Think' the car is going into CL, how can I tell for certain?
As always, thank you again for your time.
Elm

[The Alchemist]

So another question regarding segments:
I have a customer who is putting an "old school" trans behind his LS1 in a kit car type thing.
I have his ECU here to do a vats delete and mafless pretune etc. The ECU contains an Auto 4L60E segment & tune in it.

What do I need to do in regard to the auto segment, does it need to be changed to a manual one ?

thanks,
Mike