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Thread: looking for big help with tuning an extremely large cam in my ls1

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by white2001s10
    That's normal when the engine is dying because of the misfires adding pressure to the intake manifold.

    I think maybe your plugs got a little fouled from the beginning of the process, or the cold start.
    40* is probably too high. Every combo is a little different but I'd guess the probable range to shoot for is 25* - 35* at idle.

    Too much advance can make the idle less stable as well.
    It'll just take some more time watching your scans and wideband to get a feel for what is happening with your idle.
    Stay relaxed, take notes, spend some more time, and keep an eye on the plugs.

    Once plugs are fouled I sandblast them and heat the tips with a propane torch to clean them back up for re-use. It's probably handy to have a couple of sets ready for the tuning process though. Cheapie plugs of stock heat range will do.

    ok well i am sitting in the car right now datalogging with a lot more PIDs any suggestions onones to have?

    The car runs good... except for taking off is horrible wants to die out and bucks, and while runnning it bucks some time.

    As for the idle... it idles steady... My Gm.INJflow seems to stay pretty steady as well... onlyproblem is that every couple of seconds it wants to die out...then rpm drops to aroun 400 and then it comes back to life...

    Any help with this? maybe you can take a look at the log and tell me what you think.
    thanks
    Louie

  2. #32
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    http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/Log_0008.efi

    http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/Log_0007.efi

    http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/cam_0000.efi

    http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/cam_000...anges_0000.tun

    I cant seem to find any special incidence or change that causes the dip in idle...

    Please take a look

    Thanks
    louie

  3. #33
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    I can't look at any of the files until tonight.

    A fouled plug probably wouldn't show on your log.
    Sometimes if the insulator gets wet from fuel the spark shorts down the insulator instead of arcing.

    Another possibility with the high timing is that temp in the chamber and plug can increase to the point pre-ignition which is sort of what I'd expect. This wouldn't happen in the cold engine though, only at normal operating temp.

    I'd try a few different things just to get in the ballpark where it will continue to idle. I'd probably start with 25* spark and a leaner than stoich AFR on the wideband & go from there.
    Make sure the spark overshoot/undershoot has been reduced to a minimum.
    I'd turn the stall-saver off, and start looking to see where in the range the IAC position is at idle. If it's too far open you might want to consider increasing the minimum air-rate of the throttle blade a little, but that's only if adjusting the other tables fails to get the IAC to respond properly.

  4. #34
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    ok cool... i now have idle at 30 degrees... and it idles at around 14.7 AFR.

    I also got the idle to 800 rpm consistantly. i am now at work so i cant play with it too much but iw ill consider everything that you have been telling me. Thanks!

    Another this is i drove the car to work today and the two things that are really killing me is:
    A. when coming to a stop the car idles at like 400 rpm. That SUX!

    B. when taking off it bucks. as well as giving it throttle below like 1500 rpm.

    What are teh best ways to fix these?

    when i get home i will display the Log from the drive here and maybe you guys can take a little peek at it.

    Also i will be stopping and picking up some NGK TR55s on the way home to try out.

    Thank you guys very much.
    Louie Panayi

  5. #35
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    Bucking and surging usually means lean.
    You'll have to look around in the VE and main spark tables in the area this is happening.
    Your main spark table may not mesh well with your new idle spark setting.

    I'll try to look in there tonight, but it will be very late.

    Your lower idle when coming to a stop may be a combination of things. There a tables which should make this pretty easy to remedy. Most people have the opposite problem of the idle going too high.

    Take a look in this thread to get an idea.
    http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=2489

  6. #36
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    ok cool thanks for all the info... and i see a lot of things dealing with RAFIG. can i use that in OLSD? if so what is it?

    Thanks
    Louie

  7. #37
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    It's one of the many idle tables, and yes they all work in OLSD mode.

  8. #38
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    ok cool i am now playing with RAFIG. seems to have helped a bit but i am continuing to do more with it.

    I have also changed my commanded fule to be alil richer...and now i will autoVE tune the driving and see if that helps the bucking problem.

    Also with the dieing when coming to a stop i believe i have to increase the Decay for the follower and the Cracker... but i have reduced them DRASTICALLY, i have also raised the airflow for these DRASTICALLY.

    is there any way to map and fix.

    Louie

  9. #39
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    ok well Rafig has greatly increased my idle quality as well as the car now doesnt try to die out when driving in a parking lot and depressing the clutch which is great.

    Another question that i have now is what is a good baseline for my timing to be at while cruising around part throttle?

    Thanks
    Louie

  10. #40
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    well guys i tuned and tuned and tuned....

    And the result thus far is...

    Idles strong at 1000 rpm(i like it here better than 800) but 800 works. rarely to never surges at idle.

    All the bucking is gone for the most part. Part throttle can definately use some work but for the most part it is leaps and bounds over 5hours ago.

    I do still get bad bucking at right around 1500 rpm in 5th gear while cruising that i will need to look at.

    The dropping idle while coming to a stop is gone. i am actually getting a little bit of a hanging idle now that i will of course need to look at.

    Things that i would like to really fix is:

    Dial everything in.

    Find out what are good parameters for cruising Timing.

    What is a good AFR for cruising Part throttle.

    My idle is steady and strong... but it is a lot rougher than before. much more shaking and i would like to "smooth" that out a little.

    Thanks for all of the help guys.

    Louie

    Here is the most recent tune...

    http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/richerdriving.tun

    And the datalogging that took place right before the new tune.

    http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/drivehome.efi

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