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Thread: looking for big help with tuning an extremely large cam in my ls1

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by white2001s10
    A wideband O2 sensor is still measuring oxygen. It's still measuring the difference in oxygen inside the pipe as compared to outside the pipe.
    I agree. I probably 'read' too much into your posts, but it seemed like you were indicating WB's can't really be trusted or that the value displayed is somewhat irrelevant or arbitrary. I don't think that is the case. I think we have to be able to backwards compute the AFR (by comparing exhaust O2 vs atmospheric O2) otherwise we would have no need for O2's. Obviously NB's work otherwise manufacturers would not be using them to minimize emissions. You can capture injector pulsewidth and backwards compute AFR and compare that to your MAF readings as well.

  2. #22
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    well i cant even get the cam to idle any advice to get it to idle?

    Thanks
    Louie...

    or can anyon email me a program to get started ? i have a custom SD tune.

    Thanks
    Louie

  3. #23
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    well i got it to idle...
    40 degreesof timing and i am working on getting the idle AFR up to around 15.5 or so to try it out... was at 14.7 right now.

  4. #24
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    ok guys i getting an idle that wants to die out...
    i have noticed that while my idle drops and it wants todie out my MAP KPA goes from around 60s at idle near 90s while the idle starts to try to die out.

    Any info on trying to fix this problem?

    Thanks
    Louie

  5. #25
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    If you have the commercial version, you can use the bi-directional controls and alter the timing while at idle. Thus, you can get a better 'feel' for what the engine wants. 40* might be too high. In my experience, if the engine continues to 'hunt' for idle then you have too much timing. I would also try an AFR richer than 14.7:1. The reason being is that with the overlap you might need some extra fuel just to ensure enough stays in the chamber for proper combustion. Have you modified the desired/running air flow? You need to post your mods, tune, and a scan.

  6. #26
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    ok here goes...

    01SSOLSD tune

    Stepped longtube headers
    ORY
    Borlamouth
    LID

    TREX cam
    242/248 610 615 lift 110 LSA
    patriot gold duals
    hardened pushrods
    factory pump factory injectors
    ngk tr55s
    stock plug wires

    my file is to big.. who can i send it to?
    Ok i think that i linked them below... i donot have the commercial version.
    Thanks
    Louie
    Last edited by 01blkss; May 17th, 2006 at 04:15 PM.

  7. #27
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    Last edited by 01blkss; May 17th, 2006 at 04:28 PM.

  8. #28
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    Are you working on the idle at full operating temp? or while it's still cold and warming up?

    I'd triple check for vacuum leaks and check the plugs for fouling.

  9. #29
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    it is at full operating temp..

    Should my map sensor not read that high?

    Thanks
    Louie

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01blkss
    it is at full operating temp..
    Should my map sensor not read that high?
    Thanks
    Louie
    That's normal when the engine is dying because of the misfires adding pressure to the intake manifold.

    I think maybe your plugs got a little fouled from the beginning of the process, or the cold start.
    40* is probably too high. Every combo is a little different but I'd guess the probable range to shoot for is 25* - 35* at idle.

    Too much advance can make the idle less stable as well.
    It'll just take some more time watching your scans and wideband to get a feel for what is happening with your idle.
    Stay relaxed, take notes, spend some more time, and keep an eye on the plugs.

    Once plugs are fouled I sandblast them and heat the tips with a propane torch to clean them back up for re-use. It's probably handy to have a couple of sets ready for the tuning process though. Cheapie plugs of stock heat range will do.

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