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Thread: learning to tune. any advice?

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    Default learning to tune. any advice?

    So I just got my V2 in the mail a few days ago. Been reading alot on here and other forums about learning to tune. This is one of the tunes I have made so far. Ive ran the tune a little bit but just curious to see what the more experienced tuners have to say about it. Truck is all stock (for now). wondering if egts would be too high or if I made any beginners mistakes. I did notice a slight lope at idle after it gets warmed up so that one thing Ill be looking into correcting. Any advice is appreciated. just trying to figure out what works and what doesn't! thanks for looking!
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    Last edited by tunerintrainning; June 10th, 2015 at 07:12 AM.

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    return your idle areas mm3 back to stock in your main injection pulse and your lope will likely go away. this should be something like all of the 20 mm3 cells and below.

    also, i don't think it will do much good to raise your fuel pressure above 160 Mpa. {B1011} will still limit it to 160

    otherwise it looks a bit like the 20/20 tune
    2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
    285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.

    2004 LB7 Duramax, EFI Live with DSP5 Tune
    stage 4 SC transmission, 265/70/16 tires

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    Thanks for the input. I did use the 20/20 tune as a reference for alot of what I did so far. is there much of a gain when raising fuel pressure? I have heard different things about it so far. Also if theres any ideas on making more power besides more fuel and maybe adjusting timing a bit I would appreciate hearing about them Just trying to get as much info as I can!

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    Adding fuel is going to give you more power. Download the timing calculator and set your timing in the top end to 50-60% of TDC. Raise your boost accordingly to clear up any smoke you may get under load. For an LLY I would shy away from raising rail pressure as you will just pop the rail pressure valve until you shim it.
    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, little of this, a little of that,
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, custom tuning by me, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.

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    Ill try the timing calculator. I adjusted the timing a little as the 20/20 tune said to do. Is that much of a difference or will the timing calculator change it much more? Also is adjusting the pulse width really necessary or will I be able to get plenty of fuel in before the injector closes with the stock pulse width?

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    Pulse Width is where you make 99% of the power increase. doubling the PW will double the fuel in the cylinder. if done through fuel pressure alone it would take four times the pressure to do the same thing. since fuel pressure maxes out only a little above stock there is little to gain there for power.

    make the power in the PW and use fuel pressure, Boost, timing and other perimeters to fine tune the way it runs. IE: clear up smoke, MPG, noise/knock, smoothness, etc. this is where you best learn by taking it slow and only make small changes at a time and see how it runs, do some logging and make more adjustments until you get to where you want.
    Last edited by LB72004; June 16th, 2015 at 02:56 AM.
    2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
    285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.

    2004 LB7 Duramax, EFI Live with DSP5 Tune
    stage 4 SC transmission, 265/70/16 tires

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    Quote Originally Posted by tunerintrainning View Post
    Ill try the timing calculator. I adjusted the timing a little as the 20/20 tune said to do. Is that much of a difference or will the timing calculator change it much more? Also is adjusting the pulse width really necessary or will I be able to get plenty of fuel in before the injector closes with the stock pulse width?
    Pulse width is the ampount of time the injector is commanded open, so to get more fuel, you have to increase the pulsewidth. It's that simple. You won't get much more fuel by adding pressure as LLY's are NOTORIOUS for popping open the rail valve at anything over stock pressures, and 180 is about all you can really ask of one with injector issues(plenty of peopel have blown the burst ball out of the injector calling for 190MPA of pressure). So if you want more fuel, you have to add pulse width. Also make sure to log changes so you can see what it is actually doing VS what you think it's going to do. Stock tune files will not call for full fueling(100MM3) in most areas without some other changes to the tune file. And iff you add pulsewidth in, you need to add timing or else your fuel will all go in after the piston is on it's way down and just end up going out the exhaust giving you sky high EGT's and black smoke.
    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, little of this, a little of that,
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, custom tuning by me, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.

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    Ill try doing some data logging and adjusting PW and upping the boost a little bit to clear up the smoke. Thanks for all the help!

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    Would anyone be willing to take a look at one of the tunes Ive made so far and give it a review? Im just wondering about how safe it is, if the egts might be high, estimated hp, and things like that. Im planning on getting a set of gauges just havent done it yet. If anyone is interested I can send you the tune file in a pm. Any review is appreciated. Figured if I had someone to kind of work with it would help alot with my tuning. I know it could use some better timing but thats still a bit confusing to me and Id like to better understand it before I start changng too much haha

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