Ok, time to look at this chart (post #1): 4L80E-Reference-Material&p=38965&viewfull=1#post38965
so noise in D1, but no noise in M2 or M3...? What about in M1...?
Ok, time to look at this chart (post #1): 4L80E-Reference-Material&p=38965&viewfull=1#post38965
so noise in D1, but no noise in M2 or M3...? What about in M1...?
I will test M1 tonight. I assume by M1 you mean just pulling the shifter into 1st. Im pretty positive I tested that and it still did the shatter sound. I never realized D vs OD vs 1st actually did different things in 1st gear. I will test this tonight.
I think I will also do a C.A.S.E and log my misfires to see why the PCM will not tell it to lockup in 4th yet when using DVT I can make it lock.
Ill report back tonight or tomorrow with my outcome.
Jay
Yes, M1 is Manual 1st and D1 is Drive 1st, chart shows they are slightly different.
Well did some testing. Same results for M1 didnt get too much testing in as I snapped my shifter trying to force into 1st. The noise also stays once warm like 185 temps. Even idle you can hear it. Almost like something is m9ving back and forth. Sounding like its time to yank it for the builder.
Jay
Is there something impeding the movement of the shifter/cable...?
Also, while you're at it, check crankshaft endplay to make sure it is ok... but it does sound like a trans/TC problem.
No it was more or less my fault. When i put the 80e in I use my stock shifter and didnt have the throw set perfect. I spent a day on it and gave up so it was "close" enough for me lol. I kinda forced it in. Anyways my buddy gave me a short B&M cable. just got in from modifying it to work. Actually works better.
While I have it jacked up I will check. You would think if the motor had alot of end play then the thrust besring would be shot? oil pressure is fantastic etc. Im ruling on trans since i forced 2nd 3rd and 4th from idle and it doesnt make a peep
Jay
Well I dont have much to update on the noise but I think my TCC should lock fine now. I was installing my 2 step and noticed I wasnt getting power when the pedal was pushed in. So I redid my TCC relay wiring and got that all sorted. What happened was I tapped into the grey wire I was told to on the pedal. Turns out that's wrong, it was the YELLOW wire I needed. No wonder I had to wire the relay to 87 instead of 87a to get the scanner to read the pedal correct. NOW it reads correct AND has 12V when pressed down. I havnt tested anything but im pretty confident. I will still need to pull the trans for the builder to go through, I have just been too busy to even bother looking at the car.
Jay