yeah there are more than 70k. Does that really affect anything because I have the wideband?
Also, took another log and the car ran great! I severely adjusted the VE table and some of those values are pretty large for high RPM and high MAP. Can you guess what kind of horsepower I can make based off of those and can you look at those to see if my VE table is looking better.
One thing that I wanted to address was when I come to a stop slowly and the RPM change is less significant the car idles great and everything is fine but when I come to a quick stop and there is a larger decrease in RPM my car will surge and it died once. What would fix that?
here is my tune
Great oreo, now here comes the addicting part of tuning. You've caught on real fast as to how to read logs and you've got exposure to a lot of the maps that affect driveability. You'll need to start making small changes, take a short trip and then correct until it does what you want.
For engine stalling upon quick stop, you could probly catch it with the throttle cracker below 5 or so mph. Mine is set up this way but , too much air and rpm awkwardly rises when you approach a stop so get a feel for what threw engine needs.
Also, make sure your clutch position sensor is working properly so the ecm can use the right tables.
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If engine runs great, then I would leave them alone.
Need some more idle/cracker/follower tuning.One thing that I wanted to address was when I come to a stop slowly and the RPM change is less significant the car idles great and everything is fine but when I come to a quick stop and there is a larger decrease in RPM my car will surge and it died once. What would fix that?
here is my tune
It was running great for below 3500 RPM operation and I was doing some short highway pulls to tune the higher RPM bands. So when I adjusted the VE table it was more for the stuff that I had not tuned yet.
Do you also have an idea of how to take care of the knock situation? I do not want my motor to run into knock retard and instead tune it so that does not happen.
Also what other changes should I make to my spark timing?
Hmmm, for knock, I make a map of rpm vs g/cyl. Then I copy, and paste /subtract with labels into my high and low rpm. I then blend it to make sure everything is smooth.
So spark, all the ve tuning you do is accurate for a given spark. If you have the whole ve dialed in, and then adjust spark, the ve will change because you are either burning more of the fuel or less of it.
My plan so far has been to get ve nailed down, then add some spark and see if I feel anything,if I like it I rerun ve table, if not I put running back. Spark is best in a dyno obviously, but I'd rather tinker.
One thing else I did, I started with the high octane map from my buddies stock c5 z06, To get an idea. One common trend I noticed amongst all NA spark tables is that they dip as they transition through peak torque. - something to keep in mind.
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97 Vette 6spd, CamMotion Titan2 LS1 cam, TSP 5.3 StageII heads, Vararam intake, Z06 manifold, ARH headers/cats, Z06 catback, Monster Stage2 clutch, 04 Z06 pcv, new style knock sensor(late98 to 04).
Using FlashScan V1 with NGK-AFX Wide band
Check to see if your intake manifold is pulling in oil from PCV, if it is then oil will lower the effective octane (allows knock).
Can you hear it knocking (I'm trying to gauge how bad it is).