Is there a tuning guide?
I've been looking at different posts here and there and will try to apply some concepts i have read but i would like to know if there are any tuning guides out there for the 6l's or 4l's. I will be trying to tune in rear gears, stall, and sport shift mode. thanks
4l60e and 4l80e are more simple In terms of tuning.
I've never tinkered with the 6L trans tuning.
Do you have a specific tune your working on that someone could help with?
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specifically? no. Starting from the ground, just trying to read what i can. Was just curious if someone had some good pearls so i dont have to recreate the wheel.
4L60E/65E/70E and 4L80E/85E:
- increase the shift pressure tables, make them increase linerly from zero to 396 ftlb, then level off at max (96 psi).
- set the shift time tables to 0.20-0.30 s, or zero them if shift kit is installed.
- use the shift torque reduction tables to control shift feel.
- set the throttle kickdown tables to 100% everywhere.
- make sure that the 100% MPH values in the PT tables are attainable (i.e. will keep RPM below rev limiter).
- make sure the PT upshift/downshift curves do not cross each other anywhere.
- make sure WOT MPH shift points match the 100%TP points in the PT tables (and due to the previous point they would not be upside down).
- make sure each WOT RPM shift point can be achieved before the corresponding WOT MPH shift point.
Last edited by joecar; May 24th, 2016 at 11:32 PM.
6L80/90:
- make sure the upshift/downshift curves do not cross each other anywhere.
- make sure WOT MPH match PT 100%TP values, and that they are attainable (i.e. will keep RPM below rev limiter).
- make sure WOT RPM are achieveable before the corresponding WOT MPH.
- edit engine torque model in ECM to control shift feel.
- do not mess with shift time tables unless you know what you're doing.
- do not mess with pressure rables unless you know what you're doing
Last edited by joecar; May 24th, 2016 at 11:31 PM.
why cant i apply the same technique for pressure and shift time for the 6a like i would the 4a?
The 6L are all clutch on Clutch and shift times mean good shift or slipping. 4L have bands and clutchs so shift times arent near as critical.
Hope that makes sense
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ok makes sense. I just want to know what I need to do on this 6L to get quick crisp shifts. Or will it be a matter of trial and error with tables changes suggested by joecar?
4L: the hydraulic circuit that applies the component for the next gear also releases the component for the current gear, i.e. there is physical/hydraulic synchronization between the off-going and on-going components.
6L: the hydraulic circuits to each component are separate and have no physical synchronization, the synchronization is done by the TCM (the pressure and time tables being crucial for this), this is referred to as "clutch-to-clutch".
Yea that's what I meant to say...
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