OK fair enough. Had no idea that there was that much power to be gained in tune and bolt-ons on the C6. I would have guessed 60-70 flywheel HP tops.Originally Posted by njedwardz
Well keep working at it. The real results will show up with your track passes. Enjoyed your video by the way.
Lol thanks. I just kinda wanted better numbers. I think there's actually a lot to be gained just with technique and drag radials. It's hard to be consistent when you've never really had any practice.
If the weather is nice, I may make some passes at a different strip this weekend. For some reason, my car always makes faster passes at one track than the other one, even though the DA is always pretty much the same. Like I said, consistency is the #1 thing I need to work on lol.
Can please you point me to the 6L80 tuning forum, thanks.
I would try 50% torque reduction and see how much spark timing it pulls on each shift, and take note if it firms up each shift.
http://6l80etuning.com/
It does require a subscription to post to the forums and the article section which breaks down some of the tables, but I've found it to be worth having.
How much does a subscription cost...?
"For a small fee of $99.99 you will have a FULL YEAR of access to pages full of frequently asked questions, tuning articles, tune/config files, tutorials and images and 2.24, Beta, and 3.0!"
As said above, $99/year, and $49/year thereafter. You might find that steep or cheap, or somewhere in between. I've found it very helpful as an amateur, but those like you who already really know what they're doing won't get as much benefit.
In other news......
Today I had the owner of ATC here in Lafayette take my car for a drive and do some testing and he confirmed that the converter in here is bad. At the shop owner's recommendation, I will be replacing it with a factory CTS-V converter that is fully capable of handling the power and locking under any/all conditions. Yes, I know that it's not a very high stall (2600 or so), and my car will be slower. I don't care about 1/4 mi times - just that my car runs the way I want it do. I have read about quite a few people who have swapped to this converter with perfect results; I'm not looking to experiment with other products that may or may not work for me.
Tomorrow I will be calling ProTorque to inform them that I want to send this converter back for a full refund because I am not happy with its performance. When I pay $1000 for a product, I expect it to work the way it needs to. In this case, I expect it to be able to lock under any load conditions at any RPM and not slip or otherwise not work. Anything else is simply unacceptable.
The CTS-V converter has a dual-clutch setup from the factory, and it is substantially more aggressive than what comes in the Corvette. I KNOW that a 3200 stall would make my car faster in the 1/4 mile, but that's only 0.0000001% of what I use this car for. I put over 20,000 miles on this car every year, and whatever converter goes in it MUST be able to handle whatever I throw at it. I'm not willing to pay shops thousands of dollars in labor to try out multiple converter setups when there is one out there made by GM that will do what I want it to.
I will be calling Circle D Specialties tomorrow as well and talking to them about restalling said CTS-V converter - supposedly it's something they've been doing quite a bit for guys like me. Should be able to get it to the 2800-3000 RPM range, according to their website.
Might not be the route that some would take, but I know it will work for what I want it to do. This would be a whole different story if the car wasn't my only mode of transportation, but that's where I'm at right now.
I might have missed it as I was focused on HP (LOL), but why is the ProTorque not functioning properly?
Stalls come in a wide variety of stalls, tightness and personalities including abrupt and soft lockups. Of course they stall at different speeds as you increase power too.
I have a Trailblazer that has had 3 different converters in it not counting the stock unit. All of them functioned as they should but only the last one "as it needed to". No fault of the stall manufacturer.
You make it sound like its a substandard product. What did I miss?
By the way you will like the folks at Circle D. Great company.
Basically, when the converter goes into lockup, if I give it more than 25% throttle, the clutch allows 200-500RPM of slip (I have desired slip tuned to 0 and the apply ramp set up so that it's always getting full pressure when commanded to lock). I'm not saying the product it substandard - just that this particular converter is not working with this car for some reason. I've had the trans checked out by a couple shops that do 6L80 builds and they confirm that it is indeed a converter issue and NOT something with the trans itself or the programming.
I spoke to Chris at Circle D this afternoon. He said I COULD do the CTS-V converter and have it restalled to around a 2800 - it would cost me around $950 total without an install (my guy charges me $550 to R&R a converter). He recommended I spend the extra $250 to get their pro-series triple disc around a 3200 stall.
Opinions?
OK missed that you had so much slip locked up.
Be careful you dont over do the lockup. As you said you drive it 20,000 miles per year and track is not as important.
I personally started with a 3200 Yank in my current TBSS, went to a 3600 Vig triple disc because the 3200 was not enough stall. I hated the Vig triple disc so much because of the abrupt "bang" when it locked up that I jerked it out and went back to another Yank but 3600.
Chris is a stand up guy so you might ask him about the lockup. I am sure he will be straight with you.
Last edited by rrmccabe; June 1st, 2016 at 11:07 AM.
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