That doesn't look like right. The tab on the throttle body should rest against the set screw and the set screw should be backed down to close the throttle blade more. The bigger blade shouldn't need too many screw on the set screw.
Is there adjustment in the throttle cable that will allow the throttle blade cam to go all the way back to set screw?
00 Silverado Z71, LQ9 w/ LS3 heads, BTR cam, Whipple 2.9@8#, 4l80E
No adjustment but here is the cable off so i know the blade is closed.
Seems like something is keeping the blade cracked. When you remove the cable, the throttle blade cam should rest against the screw from the pressure of the spring.
Can you move the blade closed by hand so it rests against the screw? Also confirm that where it is now, the blade is actually closed?
00 Silverado Z71, LQ9 w/ LS3 heads, BTR cam, Whipple 2.9@8#, 4l80E
Negative as far as being able to move butterfly towards set screw.
The air is not coming from their then. I would focus on the IAC valve and its wiring. Air must be coming from there is not the PCV, EGR, or vacuum leak.
Let us know how it goes.
00 Silverado Z71, LQ9 w/ LS3 heads, BTR cam, Whipple 2.9@8#, 4l80E
The holley tech doc for the holley 90 throttle body shows an idle bleed as in pic attached. Does yours have this? If it does, is it adjusted correctly?
It's all good until it goes "Bang"
No its a different throttle body. Part number 112-576. No bleed screw
Sent from electronic life sucking device.
I'm trying to figure out if the tune caused the line pressure to be calculated low (which causes slipping)Originally Posted by sparkinak
( basically, in the PCM: low airmass calculation -> low torque calculation -> low line pressure calculation )
Also try this with engine running: remove the PCV air hose from valve cover to throttle body port, and use your finger to block off the port, what happens...?
Does it close by itself so that the stop rests against the screw...?
No adjustment but here is the cable off so i know the blade is closed.
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