lc-1 help plz.

[joecar]

I updated my previous link showpost.php?p=20320&postcount=67 to show where the FlashScan fits in.

If your LC-1 is functioning correctly, then wiring it this way is very simple and will work
(ignore the connectors and just wire direct without connectors to get it working;
connect LC-1 red and blue directly to battery temporarily just to get it working;
do not leave it connected to the battery like this, it will drain it).

Before I installed mine, I bench wired it as follows:
LC-1 red to battery positive
LC-1 blue to battery negative
LC-1 brown or yellow to FlashScan D or E
LC-1 green or white to FlashScan D

I connected the serial link and terminator, and verified the voltage I programmed in was comming out
(measured using DMM and EFILive software).

I also wired the LED and pushbutton together in parallel, and connected all this as follows:
LC-1 black to LED anode
LC-1 white to LED cathode

I then verified that the LED flashed/lit as specified, and that the pushbutton initiated calibration.

In my final installation my LC-1 red and blue are connected to power and ground via the NBO2 connector;
I was able to avoid chassis ground altogether.

If your LC-1 fails the bench programming test, then it could be defective (Innovate had a bad batch back then);

If you ever shorted the brown or yellow wires to any other wires or to ground,
then your LC-1 is broken and will fail the bench programming test;

do not try to flash the LC-1 firmware and this is very likely to break the LC-1.

[eboggs_jkvl]

Well, I probably now have blown up the LC connector and wasted my money. I still read the sentence "The black wire is connected to same Signal ground location as the LC-1 (Green, White wire) and is connected to the FlashScan Pin D “Common Analog Ground”." as green and white to chassis ground and the black wire from the same termination point back to the "D" terminal.

[joecar]

If the LC-1 black wire is shorted to either the LC-1 green/white or to ground, then the LC-1 stays in calibration mode, it should not damage the LC-1; when you disconnect the LC-1 black, the LC-1 should finish calibration and be ready to operate (it's black but it's not a ground).

The black wire referred to in the tutorial seems to be a length of wire used to connect LC-1 green/white to FlashScan.

If you think your LC-1 is defective/damaged, contact Innovate and see if they'll repair it for you (they did this for me after I tried flashing it).

[eboggs_jkvl]

I fully understand that the black wire in the picture is not used to depict a "normal ground" color. I look at this picture from the Innovate handbook and remain confused. To me, it shows the G&W wires tied to a chassis ground. Screw it. I'm going to go watch world cup for a while.

WHen I start the car, my red LED blinks for 20 seconds or so and then goes to a steady "lit" condition.

Elmer

[joecar]

I fully understand that the black wire in the picture is not used to depict a "normal ground" color. I look at this picture from the Innovate handbook and remain confused. To me, it shows the G&W wires tied to a chassis ground. Screw it. I'm going to go watch world cup for a while.

WHen I start the car, my red LED blinks for 20 seconds or so and then goes to a steady "lit" condition.

Elmer

Elmer,
Don't pay too much attention to Innovate's connection "idea", it's not very good (in my opinion) when using the LC-1 to emulate the 4-wire NBO2 sensor (F-body and Y-body).

Blink 20 seconds and then steady, that means it should be working, you're ready to go.

Enjoy the game.

Joe

[killaz]

aight thx slom, ill be home in like 1 hour ill give it a try

[killaz]

all i can get is please plug in your LC-1 and power it on. I have it hooked up like loecar says. I have tried 2 serial usb adapters and still nothing. Terminator plug is in ect ect. What am i missing?

[TAQuickness]

have you tried verifying the USB/Serial device settings? Have you verified it works at all?

I bought the cheapest USB to serial dongle I could find, loaded the included software to my laptop, and everything worked fine.

[killaz]

i installed the CD that it came with. Then pluged it in assunming it would work?? When i plug the USB in the computer CHIMES but it still says "please plug in your LC-1 and power it on" How do activate it?

[joecar]

i installed the CD that it came with. Then pluged it in assunming it would work?? When i plug the USB in the computer CHIMES but it still says "please plug in your LC-1 and power it on" How do activate it?

If your LC-1 is getting at least 12V across the red/blue wires, and you have the terminator plugged into the SERIAL IN connector, then your LC-1 might be defective or broken.