getting pretty frustrated again

[BACKinBLACK]

2000 Camaro SS M6
F14 112, Fast 90/NW90, mac mids, ory, supporting other mods, etc etc

Well guys i finally got my wideband installed (LC1)... YAYA so i thought....

Well whenever i first installed my wideband it started throwing number 8 Error code at me (bad sensor). So i didnt even put the sensor in the bung. Well i got bored so last week i went ahead and put it in and started the car even through it was throwing a code. The code stopped flashing and then it started reading an AFR Well it was reading that i was running at around 8:1 AFR. That sure as hell is rich.

I was excited because it appeared to be working so i thought wow i can finally autoVE my car and make it driveable. YAY. Well i throw the AUTOVE tune into the car and the thing wont hardly run at all!! It wont idle pretty much at all and i tried to drive it and made it about a mile and had to put the regular tune back into it to make it home.

I noticed that as soon as i put that tune into the car that my car appeared to be running at 10.30:1 AFR ALLL THE TIME. it did not move a fraction of decimal of a atom. IT WAS PEGGED. That pissed me off. Well also whenever i was driving with the AUTOve tune in it and scanning and logging ONLY the PIDS specified in the auto ve tutorial , that scanner wouldnt even read RPM or VSS . yes yes yes. I was really happy. But then what got to me even more is that whenever i was pulled over to put the old tune in it, the scanning tool "lost" the connection. It couldnt connect at all. what i ended up having to do was change my pid selection to my default... then it would connect. Wierd huh? I even tried disconnecting it, shutting down the program, reopening it, all kinds of stuff. but so long as i had the AUTOVE pid selection selected it wouldnt work.

Well this made me start wondering if the wideband was bad or if my EFIlive was just all jacked up.

I went back today and did the exact same thing bc i remember that i had forgotten to unplug my MAF when i put the autove tune in it (will that affect it). So i went today and made sure to unplug the maf and it did the EXACT same thing, wouldnt run, wouldnt read rpm, and eventually wouldnt connect to the car until i changed my pid selction.

Sorry if all this seems confusing to you but im mad, frustrated and sad b/c i want to tune my car and cant.

dean from dynotunenitrous thinks that i got one of the bad lc1 units, imma send it to him and hopfully get a new one, but that still dont explain the durn efilive issue.

Any advice, thoughts, ways to destroy my car? anything at all?

Thanks
Trevor

[ringram]

Sounds like your WB wiring might be off a little, do a search here, there are a few pics and lots of info.

Perhaps leave that unplugged and try just the efilive scanner. Check you are running the latest version too.

Definately unplug the maf and follow the autotune ve tutorial closely if you want to go back down that path.

The best idea is to just run the LC1 logging software with pcm in closed loop with stock OS and make sure it logs 14.7, do some WOT action and see what it reads, should of course be around 12:1 or so. Once you get to there with the LC1 then connect it back into the flashscan device. It took me a few days to get the wiring right, lots of grounds and stuff to mess with. Mind you I replaced a NB and wired it to the PCM too.

[BACKinBLACK]

I followed the LC1 installation tutorial that is on EFLives website. Ive doublechecked all of my wiring and what not, havent found anything thus far.
I have driven and logged with and without the wideband hooked up and it does fine even with it hooked up until i change my pid selection to the pids stated in the tutorial. That is when the scanner goes haywire. My default pid i believe has everything used the in the autove selection and a lot more and it doesnt have anyproblems at all until i try to just log those pids stated in the tutorial and then it has problems.

When i drive the car in closed loop and log, the Lc1 says im running anywhere from 7-10.3 AFR but it will never go above 10.3. Like i said when ever i put in the AUTOVE tune it pegs out at 10.3 and doesnt budge at all when im driving no matter what i try to do.

im not running the latest version of efilive, i am planning dl the new one in a minute.

I cant connect my LC1 to my laptop yet b/c i havent been able to find a usb to serial adaptor, so as of now im kinda screwed.

[TAQuickness]

I cant connect my LC1 to my laptop yet b/c i havent been able to find a usb to serial adaptor, so as of now im kinda screwed.

that's kind of important. Try www.outpost.com, or ebay for that matter. I wouldn't spend too much effort trouble shooting the WB until you have the means to hook up and calibrate it.

Put the tune back to how it was before you started and just work with the scan tool for now. Try various combo's of PID's and see if you can duplicate the problem. Let us know if changing your PID selection is truely causing your problem.

[joecar]

Trevor,

Make sure the scan tool displays your correct VIN/OS/Trans. at the bottom of the window; if it doesn't, then go File->Enter Vin and enter those.

[Happy Jim]

Trevor,

I'm a couple of weeks ahead of you in the "new to this lark" stakes and had similar ish problems. Most were cured by putting things down, picking up a beer and reading the instructions for the 14th time (it's me, I'm slow!).

My first bash out ended with a hugely rich mixture and limping home, turns out I had screwed up the wiring for the NB output of the LC1 and wasn't giving the PCM any input (hence it thought it was lean, added fuel, lean, added fuel, continue until fuel washing engine clean ), easily solved by dumping the PCM into Open Loop mode. Next was same as the first, this time with the wide band output, I was merrily logging the floating output thinking life was peachy solved by forcing the LC1 WB output to a flat voltage output and playing with the wiring until the scan tool registered the correct reading (verify by changing the flat output to a different voltage to confirm scanning the correct output), so I'm now getting a real reading from the LC1 and have done about 10 logs for Auto VE - getting there now

Have to say that it's uphill for a while, but I'm starting to understand what I am supposed to be achieving (hence it is starting to make more sense). I'm starting to explore some of the other features - very very cool software

Cheers

Jim

[joecar]

Trevor,

How is your LC-1 connected...?

[joecar]

Trevor,

Happy Jim has a good point, you need to be able to program in some flat voltages (say 3.77V and 1.77V) and measure these on the LC-1's analog outputs (yellow and brown)...

only then can you be confident that your LC-1 is working right.

Note: do not let the yellow or brown short to any other wires or to ground (otherwise the LC-1 will die).

[Black02SS]

Note: do not let the yellow or brown short to any other wires or to ground (otherwise the LC-1 will die).

Maybe this needs to be sticky'd somewhere or added to the tutorial?

[BACKinBLACK]

hmm well let me look...

yellow.... pin E
green & white .... PIN D
Red to a switched 12v (fuse panel)
Blue to a ground
Black... run to led and push momentary switch
brown... not used


the yellow , green and white wires are hooked up directly to the orange connector that connects to the black box.
I have the sensor in the bung where the rear 02's should be.

how do you force the lc1 to put out a certain voltage?