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Thread: Standalone Tuning

  1. #11
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    Thanks kidturbo. I really appreciate the help. I may end up sending a PM but I'll post the questions here just in case any information given may help someone else in the future. These forums are invaluable for that reason. Much information has already been shared and PMs are not visible to everyone.

    I never bothered looking at the bench harness tutorial until you pointed it out. I think that I already have the harness set up for the ECM and TCM. I will double check to be sure I have power on those pins and report back.

    So just to be sure I don't forget to ask, since I am not using a BCM and the PCM is not receiving a signal from it to start the engine am I relying on the crank and cam sensors seeing the engine turning over? It works this way on a LS1B ecu just fine. I did a LS swap into a Jeep and it would start just fine when I cranked the engine over from the Jeep ignition switch which was separate from the GM PCM.
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  2. #12
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    Your correct, without a BCM, nothing to tell it "key-on" switch on PTR by ground signal from ECM. Same thing with cranking. All that is handled by HSGMLAN canbus messages after about 04 or so in gasssrs and 06 on the Dmax. With VATS disabled, I've triggered those relays via cabbus and a laptop.

    Same protocols used accross all GM after those years up to about 18. Beside the Vette, but I believe that OS difference is documented here. Short, ya can drop a Durmax engine and Allison trans in a Camaro, it will run happy as if rolled off Detroit's assembly line. But since we ain't using a BCM, we just power up ECM and all other modules as if you shorted the relays in the fuse block.. Would be super easy to steal a car, so GM added VATS to solve that issue. History lesson over..

    So with VATS disabled, they run fine hot wired. However, they have no verification of cranking. So basically it sees crank cam signals incoming, says wow driver must have turned key off and back on while driving down the road. Best try and recover..

    Now in the LBZ/LMM OS we have one table called cranking torque which our friends here made available for you to modify. Pretty straight forward, and is actually still used by the ECM when RPM goes below 500. Which saves our butts in these stand alone setups. But from my experience, the transfer between that and running torque tables is pretty messy.

    So if you have issues cranking, bump up the numbers in that one which typically helps. Your purposely causing it overshoot the torque numbers once it brakes the 600r mark and moves over to our normal running tables.

    More in a bit, gotta run.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    Thanks again.

    So I have verified my wiring. My wiring harness appears to match the harness document. All the switched and unswitched positive wires are connected to battery positive and the ground wires to the ECM and TCM are connected to battery negative. I don't believe I am missing any engine grounds either.

    I have also verified the ECM does see engine turning over by using a Bluetooth obd adapter.

    I'm wondering at this point if I should try spraying some WD40 into the intake while I'm cranking it over to see if it will at least attempt to fire?
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  4. #14
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    I would check codes with V2 and see what it says. There will be a few to be expected such as no connection to BCM. If nothing jumps out, feel free to share what you see.

    To diagnose it from here, I prefer to use the scan tool under EFIlive and check things such desired fuel pressure vs actual. If she don't see fuel pressure needed, won't fire. That will tell ya if maybe needs primed. If ya have lift pump, then typically not an issue. But can still take a few min of cranking to get all the air out. By looking at FP pid, can eliminate that really quickly..

    Another one that will keep if from firing is APPS_1 or APPS_2 signal wire issues. If the throttle signal isn't pretty spot on, won't fire. I've ran into that one a before in swaps. Basically check throttle position pids and related while moving the pedal.

    If it won't fire, it typically sets a hard code pretty quickly that will alert you to problem. If not wiring, then it's fuel..

    Bests,

    -K

  5. #15
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    I hooked up my V2 today to see what I could see. I took some screen shots of the DTCs

    I do want to state here that I realize I may have the wrong accelerator pedal but it does seem to be reading correctly. According to the information I found on line the 2006 LBZ is supposed to have GM part 15233970 but I am using a 25832864 pedal assembly.

    It is the same pedal I have in my 2008 Chevy and I compared the values in that tune to the values the LBZ is expecting and they match exactly. Also when I monitor the pids both readings are identical for APP_D and TP_A. My assumption is it should work.

    If I recall correctly I unplugged the accelerator pedal on my sons LBZ truck and his engine still started without it. I can certainly leave mine unplugged if that may be causing a no start.

    I am curious if the transmission code would prevent the engine from starting? Or any of the engine codes that may stop the engine from starting?

    What is the fuel rail pressure supposed to be? Mine was showing 2480 kPa.
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    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  6. #16
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    Best to read the fuel pressure and MPA, or PSI.
    You're shy about 5000 pounds of fuel pressure right now when it's cranking. They won't fire with 350psi.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  7. #17
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    So is this an indication I may need an injection pump?
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  8. #18
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    I'm in updating this thread while I'm chomping at the bit...I'm letting the starter cool down. I'm starting to see some white smoke coming from the exhaust. It's very tempting to keep going but I don't want to burn the starter up. I'm remembering back to my 6.2 GM diesel days now. I ran one out of fuel once.... You don't make THAT mistake too often after the first time.

    I've run my 2002 Duramax out of fuel but it wasn't this bad to get restarted afterwards. I'm optimistic that seeing the smoke coming from the exhaust means I'm getting closer to a running engine.
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  9. #19
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    Another quick update. I figured since I may actually be getting close to a running engine I should probably change the oil before it fires up. The oil in the engine was black and unknown age. I had to lift the engine to get an oil pan under it for drainage. After the oil change I set the engine down and tried again to start it but got no smoke. So I pushed the prime pump button a few times and could hear air coming from the filter seal. It seems I may have an air leak in the fuel system. What I remember from my 6.2 diesel days is air in the fuel system causes a no run condition quickly. My next step is to see if I can track down a fuel delivery problem... I'll report back once I know more.
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  10. #20
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    Sorry been under the weather a bit and not checking in.

    The seal on the primer is a common issue that can cause NO fuel pressure that your experiencing. When data logging, try and get as many useful PIDs recoding as possible. And always record for playback later, then you can chart how that fuel pressure starts ramping up to get best view while cranking and such. That really helps me spot things out of place, especially if couple days later.

    I think your most likely good on the electrical and tune for now, so might also suggest bringing up any other related questions on duramaxdiesels.com where you'll fine plenty of reliable info and help from many professionals. It's not always easy to work out some of the bugs on such swaps, but I'll bet at least a handful of member there have experience on any questions you have.

    Bests

    -K

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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