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Thread: noob questions about tuning

  1. #1
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    Default noob questions about tuning

    I have a project pretty close to wrapped up. I transplanted a Vortec 5.3 from 2000 Silverado into a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport.

    The engine has no internal modifications. Stock injectors cam etc..

    I kept the Jeep computer to run the stock Jeep gauges and speedometer. I am running two oil and temp sensors one each for the Jeep and GM computer. I used a Novak crank/cam emulator for the stock Jeep tachometer. Everything seems to be working fine there. All gauges work fine.

    I have created a custom OS by segment swapping a manual transmission into a 12212156 OS. I have disable all torque management that I could find in the tune. VATS is disabled.

    I have ordered a wideband O2 sensor but am waiting for it to arrive. Once it's here I still need to build a custom cable to use the AEM 30-0334 with my V2 and LS1b controller.

    The Jeep is currently drivable but isn't running great. I have no speed sensor so the GM ECU has no way of knowing the vehicle is in motion. I'm wondering if I actually need one?

    It seems to run pretty good and has adequate power in open loop but as soon as it goes into closed loop it doesn't seem to have power unless I go WOT or at least heavy throttle. At cruise speed it seems to run like it's starving for fuel. I'm guessing my VE table needs to be adjusted. What I'm wondering is if I can do any temporary changes to the tune using the narrow bands to improve drivability until I can do a proper tune using the wideband and calc.vet tutorial?
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  2. #2
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    My AEM 30-0334 came in already. It wasn't supposed to be here until June 3 according to the seller. I'm still waiting for the new sockets and pins so I create a custom cable to use the analog output with the LS1b computer though. It's supposed to be here May 30th according to the tracking provided by DigiLink.

    So today I decided I'd try to tune some without the wideband. I figured if I can at least tune the closed loop portion of the VE table it would increase drivability a little maybe.

    I followed the notes from CALC VET summary:
    III. CALC.VET Tuning Tips

    1. B0701: Disable Catalytic Converter Protection
    Insures accurate stoich and PE mode/WOT Fueling

    2. B0120: Change RPM Threshold for Airflow Calculation from 4000 to 400
    Eliminates any Airflow Correction/Contribution from the VE Table
    (if your transient filter is sufficiently wide, it will filter out VE contribution)

    3. B3308: Disable DFCO: Change B3308 (M6) to 140C Change B3313 to 140C
    Accurate fueling computations

    4. B4105: O2 Switch-points to 450 Millivolts
    Smoother MAF & VE Table

    5. B3618: PE Modifier Based on Rpm: EQR 1.16
    Safe adequate Fueling regardless of Fuel Type

    6. B3616: PE Enable: make sure PE enables as load becomes significant
    (e.g. below 60% TP below 3200 rpm, 35% TP above 3200 rpm).

    7. B3608 and B3609: PE Delay: set these to zeros.

    I also followed these instructions after loading those changes into my computer:
    Before logging, use the scantool to clear trims
    ( goto DVT tab, select PCM, goto Learning subtab, click Activate, click Fuel Reset, wait a few moments, click De-activate )

    When I tried driving the Jeep afterwards it was practically undrivable.

    So I loaded the "pre tune" settings back in and just set B3608 to zero and loaded that in. (B3609 is a table and the instructions don't make sense to me so I didn't change that to zero.) When I took it for a test drive it was actually not bad. Once the temp got to normal though it was back to feeling underpowered but not as bad as before.

    I guess I have a lot more reading to do. I didn't realize how in depth I would need to get to tune this thing. The learning curve is steeper than I was expecting. It's clear to me now that the older I get the better I used to be... This is making me feel pretty dumb...
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  3. #3
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Post your before and after tune files here, and a log file.

  4. #4
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    Thanks for taking the time to help. I didn't actually get a log because the vehicle wasn't really drivable after loading the "tune" settings into the computer. I have attached two tunes. The names should be self evident.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  5. #5
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    B3609: you have it set to zeros (correct).

    B3618: this is incorrect (excessively lean, this is why it ran poorly), you are using Lambda instead of EQR... i.e. you set it to Lambda 1.16 instead of EQR 1.16 (take note: Lambda = 1/EQR).

    Set your fueling units to EQR , it will make tuning easier.

  6. #6
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    You also have a lot of other changes which I believe to be unnecessary (please correct me).

  7. #7
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    So how do I change the fueling units to EQR? Edit I think I found this.


    What other changes did I make that are unnecessary?
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by jeeper; May 28th, 2020 at 07:07 AM.
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  8. #8
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    So I now have everything I think I need to install the wideband and connect it as analog to the V2 for my LS1b. As I look at the Jeep exhaust I really don't want to remove it to install a bung for the wideband. I'm wondering how bad it would be to remove one of my narrow bands and install this 30-0334 in its place?
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  9. #9
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    I'm starting to think I don't have enough ability to learn this but I made a small step today in spite of my mistakes.

    I ended up taking out the left side NBO2 sensor and installing the wideband in its place. I tried to follow the tutorial on how to calc.vet tune. I'm sure I'm missing something (but that wasn't my real problem today). I then needed to learn how to load the V2 for logging. I followed a thread that explains how to set that up. I then tried a quick logging session. I connected the V2 and warmed up the engine. I then started logging data (or so I thought). I only ran for a couple minutes in my driveway anyway because I was just experimenting.

    I stopped the datalog and came inside and connected to my computer to view the log. What I couldn't find was how I was supposed to view it. After a few minutes of poking around unsuccessful I decided I would just pop the SD card out of the V2 and into my computer. That's when I realized I didn't have the SD card pressed into place. Doh...

    But what I did learn today (so far) was that the engine runs poorly when the parameters from the tutorial are loaded into the PCM. I decided I'd look to see if there were any codes in the PCM that may give me any clues. Turns out there was. The purge system is not functional. After searching for how to disable that I went back out and re-installed the pre tune with a few modifications that totally disabled the purge system. Viola...the engine runs good (well, acceptable) driving down the road. No more feeling like it loses power at cruise speed at least. It sounds a lot better too.

    But I have more questions.

    With the WB connected and in it's default configuration I am reading around 23 on warm idle and around 18 at cruise speed. I need to verify the default display is actually lambda (but I was assuming it is).

    On to the questions.

    Before I pulled out a NB (and also while I still had the tune parameters in the PCM) I did a scan with the V2 and watched the voltage on the O2 sensors. What I noticed was the sensor labelled HO2S21 was reading very low after a few moments compared to HO2S11. I'm talking 40-50mv for bank 2 vs 430-440mv on bank 1. Is this normal to have one that far out from the other?

    Is bank 2 supposed to be on the drivers side (left side here in the USA) or did I wire them up wrong when I made my harness?


    I will be pulling my exhaust eventually and welding in a bung. I don't really want to, but I think I may have blown a collector gasket which may be what's causing the readings to be so far off from each other...?
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

  10. #10
    Member jeeper's Avatar
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    Nope...I'm wrong again.

    Turns out it wasn't the changes I made to the purge system that allows it to run okay. I did have that disabled by the "disabled" button. It seems that may have been all that was needed for that.

    So I was out experimenting after I posted the update/questions and ended up destroying the cord I made for analog logging with the wideband. I still wanted to try some things but I was low on fuel so I decided I would run and get some in the Jeep. I remembered reading somewhere that it wasn't good to run the wideband without power because it could get damaged. I pulled the wideband and re-installed the narrow band and proceeded to the gas station.

    About a mile down the road the Jeep got up to temperature and again started running like it was losing power. I pulled over and unplugged the O2 sensor I had just installed and took off again. The Jeep runs fine that way.

    Also I figured out I needed to use V8 file explorer to move the log file off the V2. I played the .efi file but don't really know what I'm doing yet obviously. When I look at the Dashboard (F10) tab there is no information displayed on the gauges. I do have some seemingly useless data on Data (F9) though.
    2002 Duramax
    project Jeep Wrangler to CJ conversion with a LS engine and 6L80e transmission underway

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