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Thread: AutoVE Tuning

  1. #1
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    Default AutoVE Tuning

    I've been doing some AutoVE tuning (finally) and am close to getting all the BEN's around 1. My C5 is a 2001 and has the 5 pin connector that includes IAT sensor as well. With the MAF disabled per the instructions, I was wondering if I should be concerned about whether the MAF is really disabled or not? I've read that the only way to know for sure that the MAF is disabled is to remove the connector but if I do that then I have to find another way to connect the IAT sensor. Is this really necessary or can I be reasonably assured that the MAF is fully disabled by changing the parameters as shown in the AutoVE tutorial? I did check for the DTC's for the MAF and they were there and the MIL did not illuminate.

    Thanks,

  2. #2
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    If you get any of the DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103 then the PCM has failed over to VE table only mode (SD mode).

    The AutoVE Tune procedure has you disable the MIL for those DTC's.

  3. #3
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    To make sure the MAF fails, I swap the high frequency with the low and the low with the high. Then, I change the fail limits to 1 so that the first time the MAF fails, the DTCs Joe mentioned are set.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Gents. I did get the PO codes mentioned so I feel pretty sure that I'm in SD mode. Gotta make another run for some more data that should get by BEN's to around 1 and then I'll start logging the LTFT's. After that I'll be recalibrating my MAF. Is there any reason to tune the rest of the VE table above 4000rpm if I'm keeping my MAF?


  5. #5
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    I found that on the street, as hard as I try, I can only hit certain parts of the VE table (including lower RPM (< 4000) and upper MAP/RPM (>90/>4000) corner too)...

    This means it's very unlikely for me to hit the "unhit" regions of the VE table, so rather than thrash my transmission, I called it good, and when I have time I'll rent some dyno time, or buy my own dyno shop...

  6. #6
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    Buy the dyno shop......it works out cheaper in the long run.


  7. #7
    Lifetime Member Garry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VetPet
    Buy the dyno shop......it works out cheaper in the long run.
    What if you can't find a dyno anywhere close?

    :lol:
    Garry Glendown * '17 Fifty 2SS MT * 99 Firehawk Convertible (for sale)

  8. #8
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Cool

    Get a business loan, lease a suitable building in a light industrial zone, lease/buy a dyno and other equipment, do paid advertising, and tune you own car while waiting for your first customer... may have to do other things in the mean time to make ends meet (rebuild engines, trannies, axles...)...

    Easier said then done, but certainly doable.

  9. #9
    Lifetime Member Garry's Avatar
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    :lol: Not really my line of expertise ...
    Garry Glendown * '17 Fifty 2SS MT * 99 Firehawk Convertible (for sale)

  10. #10
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    As Jimmy J.J. Walker used to say "Dyno.......mite"! Think two treadmills will work.......one for each wheel?


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