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Thread: "Best" Wideband Controller for Portability?

  1. #1
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    Question "Best" Wideband Controller for Portability?

    I'm looking for a wideband that I can swap between two vehicles. From what I have read, the LM-1 is more portable than the LC-1, but I price for the LC-1 us a little more appealing. I've seen joecar's post on how he wired up his LC-1 to be able to switch between cars, but to be honest, without having the controller in front of me I don't fully understand what was wired permanently in the car and what wasn't (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=3059). I'm really looking to share the entire wideband setup between two vehicles. One of the vehicles is a serious offroader, so being able to wire up the brains in the cab (either via stock wiring or extensions) would be a bonus as I don't think many of these pieces would enjoy a nice mud bath.

    Suggestions welcome above and beyond the LC/M-1's, just seems like those are the ones that are mentioned most. This isn't a shop setup, so maybe you guys are going to tell me to just pony up and get 2 LC-1s, just looking for some opinions/advice.

    Thanks,
    Andrew

  2. #2
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Andrew,

    Your solution may simply be to screw in the sensor into the bung and push the module into the cabin (thru some suitable hole/plug in the floor), and to connect to the cigar lighter (using cigar plug) for power and to FlashScan for signal input; this precludes using the WB for NB sim (...you need to connect into the NBO2 connector to do NB sim, and while you're there why not grab power from the NBO2 connector also... which is where ViolatorTA and others and me are getting power from);

    my solution requires me to prewire my vehicles with a cheap (~ $15) self-made "subharness" for the LC-1 to plug into, and to hack up my LC-1 with mating plugs/sockets to match the subharness (which is ok for me, I bought the plugs/sockets in a kit and I have other uses for them);

    you kind of have to "drape" the LC-1 on the underside of your vehicles, and try to imagine how you can move it between your vehicles; of course you can have 2x LC-1's but then you'll want to put one on each bank, as done by TAQuickness.

    Cheers
    Joe

  3. #3
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    Joe, thanks for the reply. I'm gotta try to take a look at the contents of the LC-1 kit a little more closely so I can understand more about what polugs into where. I know one vehicle has an added bung for the WBO2, and the other doesn't for now. That's while I'll read up more on the LC-1 install so I can understand how/if the NC sim connection comes into play it both cases. I'll bring this thread back to life then so I'm not wasting your time.

    Thanks again,
    Andrew

  4. #4
    Lifetime Member minytrker's Avatar
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    I have both, 2 LC1's and a LM1. I have the LC1 installed in my car and never take it out, the other I used to use as a portable one that I made until I bought my LM1. I do tuning everyday and the LM1 was worth every penny. Not only for the portability but for the display. I can just glance down and see the A/F while having the laptop display something else. To me its worth the few extra dollars to get the LM1.

  5. #5
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    I'm almost done making my LC-1 portable. I'll be posting pics and specifics on cable length too. I hope to be done by Friday. It's taking a little longer than I thought it would because figuring out how long the cables need to be isn't easy when your taking into consideration two mounting points. One "permanent" spot and another spot for when it's being used in a different car. I'm not exactly a wiring expert either
    Last edited by Xtnct00WS6; October 25th, 2006 at 02:57 AM.

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