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Thread: LC-1 heater power question...

  1. #11
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Tex,

    When playing/experimenting with it, be very careful to not short the yellow or brown wires to anything (power, ground, each other)...

    failing to observe this will damage the DAC inside the LC-1 (requires sending back to Klaus for repair).

    the only good place they can connect to is either NBO2 signal hi or FlashScan analog input.

    Joe

  2. #12
    Senior Member ToplessTexan's Avatar
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    The only rule I try to follow when messing with hardware is don't let the smoke out. Actually, I'm used to working with delicate/sensitive gadgets. At least the LC-1 won't hurt me if I'm careless.

  3. #13
    Senior Member ToplessTexan's Avatar
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    NAH, thanks. Nice link.

  4. #14
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by ToplessTexan
    The only rule I try to follow when messing with hardware is don't let the smoke out. Actually, I'm used to working with delicate/sensitive gadgets. At least the LC-1 won't hurt me if I'm careless.
    The LC-1 won't hurt you unless you grab it by the end of the cable and swing violently over your head... then it might poke your eye out...

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToplessTexan
    NAH, thanks. Nice link.
    You're welcome mate.
    2004 Monaro CV8 - 80mm BBK throttle body - 42lb Injectors - 1.8 Rockers - CAPA Long-Tube Headers- SLP Exhaust - Vortech Centrifugal S/C @ 7PSI- CAPA Intercooler - Bilstein Shocks - Wilwood 6-Pot/4-Pot Brakes - TyreWatch Monitoring - LC-1 Wideband - KAAZ Diff - Racelogic - 480RWHP

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