Im tryin to figure out this SPARK table....
There are 12 tables that have to do with spark and the Adjustment of Spark if Knock occurs..
Where do you guys start at?
Im tryin to get my KR down to 0 so i can do my AutoVE tune..
Help Please!
-Jonathan
Im confused
Im tryin to figure out this SPARK table....
There are 12 tables that have to do with spark and the Adjustment of Spark if Knock occurs..
Where do you guys start at?
Im tryin to get my KR down to 0 so i can do my AutoVE tune..
Help Please!
-Jonathan
If you have KR, you need to determine where you have KR. Look at grams/cyl. of airflow and RPM around the time the KR occured. Then, you can reduce the timing in the appropriate table (High Octane Spark....or Low Octane Spark if your MAF is turned off) for those conditions.
Im bone stock with a K&N intake, Gutted Cats, Magnaflow muffler, TR55 plugs, Efans. Thats it on the motor.
Built 60E, Stock verter. Eaton LSD out back.
But do i just adjust the High Octane Spark?
What year car ?
Yes, timing is commanded from the high octane spark map unless the car is in a backup mode (like speed density/no MAF).
And also make sure it's not leaning out inducing knock.
2000 Silverado 5.3L
LC-1 with EFI Live V1.
Im still learning, thats why i ask...
I know its lean every now and again... I have a Walbro 255lph pump sittin on my dresser im goin to try to put in this weekend.. SO im holding off with the tuning till then.
Some times i get knock sometimes i dont..... Not sure why..
I run 93oct from Phillilps 66. Thats the only place i get it..
As I recall from the last log I saw, you were quite a bit lean (relative to commanded) at some points. Since you have your LC-1 working now, go SD, tune that VE table and see if the knock still appears.Originally Posted by nonnieselman
Im printing out the AutoVE Turtorial right now...
I'm just going to chime in real quick...
Have a look at the knock as it is introduced and retarded out. The knock sensors are just tuned microphones and you will get false knock.
Looking at the shape:
- If KR spikes and then retards out smoothly it could have been a false knock situation.
- If it spikes, retards out and then spikes again, sot of like saw tooth appearance then it is probably real knock.
I also have a hate relationship for the Burst Knock system. This system is supposed to proactively remove timing when there is a change in cylinder air density to prevent knock occurring. I have experimented quite a bit with the values for the B6210 & B6212 tables and always end up 0'ing them. Every time I try and use them I get more logged KR, and the KR retard values are significantly higher
Andrew
EFILive Crew
i just looked at my latest log, Its more of a Spike and then slowly goes away...
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