98 C5 Logging problem

[TLKSCHP]

I have never been able to get a WOT log or an Auto tune to log and work. Every time I try the car stalls or misses it's shift points and just flat has problems. today the dash lights would even flicker. This has been going on from the get go when i had my old Auto tap cable, does it with my LS1 edit set up and my EFI live cable. I have been able to do other peoples cars no problem but not my own. I have tried to just log the A/F and timing and that was all with the same result. Now I just did the Head and cam swap and if it wasn't for Carmen at Vette Doctors getting me a good tune to start with I would be lost. I have a new Optima right now and have had new Delco's same problem. Am I just screwed?

[ToplessTexan]

I guess my thought is if you only had trouble logging data (i.e., the car ran right) I'd suspect the DLC or wiring to it. If it ran/runs flaky, then I'd look toward the wiring around the PCM. Any battery acid woes in the past?

Are you saying it's been flaky with respect ot being able to log data for a while now, and you did a H/C swap and it's still flaky? Or did it run okay before the swap?

Or are you saying you *only* have issues when you have a(ny) cable on the DLC?

[TLKSCHP]

I have problems when i try any cable on it. I have never been able to get a WOT log. Car runs great when it's not hooked up. I'm going to try My friends HP tuners cable and also see If I can try someones new EFI cable set up. When I asked a long time ago i was told the the Buss speed in the 98's can't keep up I was hoping that was solved with the newer cables and software.

[Blacky]

Have you tried using different scan modes?
In the Scan Tool, select Edit-Properties and open the [Logging] tab page.
Try each of the four logging modes: General, Dynamic, Stream-Slow and Stream-Fast.

And make sure you have the latest software, available here:
http://www.efilive.com/download.aspx#download1

Regards
Paul

[TLKSCHP]

Have you tried using different scan modes?
In the Scan Tool, select Edit-Properties and open the [Logging] tab page.
Try each of the four logging modes: General, Dynamic, Stream-Slow and Stream-Fast.

And make sure you have the latest software, available here:
http://www.efilive.com/download.aspx#download1

Regards
Paul

i will give them a try tomorrow, didn't know those options were their.

thanks

[ToplessTexan]

I have problems when i try any cable on it. I have never been able to get a WOT log. Car runs great when it's not hooked up.

I'm assuming the EFILive scanning mode isn't this issue since you have it with different kinds of scanning/programming cables. Given that, I'd be looking at the wiring harness in the area of the DLC. For some reason, having a cable connected changes the way your car runs. My bet is that you have an intermittent short or some other type of cross talk that is altering voltages the PCM sees. That's about the only way I can imagine an attached cable impacting the way the car runs.

Is OBD-II part of your state's vehicle inspection? If so, ever have any similar issues at inspection time?

[TLKSCHP]

The port had never even been used until I bought LS1 edit way back when and auto tap. No inspections and only a few times to the dealer in the cars life. Nothing under the dash has ever been messed with. I have been told that few others have had problems and the only way around it was tuning on a dyno with a battery charger running. I know at the track when I try to flash tunes sometimes I have to flash up to 4 times to get it to take. Usually the dash won't work or lights after a flash. Just remembered that. My car is broke a lot so I get rusty

[TAQuickness]

Any chance you've RR'd the heads? If so, double check the ground lug on the left rear head. Once upon a time ago, mine came loose and caused me all sorts of problems.

[TLKSCHP]

Any chance you've RR'd the heads? If so, double check the ground lug on the left rear head. Once upon a time ago, mine came loose and caused me all sorts of problems.

I have had this problem since the car was totally stock and un touched.

Right now I'm getting my but kicked working on my friends 408. He had Ed wright tune it and I had a license for it but Ed changed something cause now it says unrecognized something. like that. Car just started running like crap, has detonation. But that is another problem other than what i posted.


I need to save my pennies and get the new cable so I can play with the wifes new TBSS

[ToplessTexan]

Hmmm... Maybe you should sell me your broken car real cheap - I should have bought Nassau blue.

FWIW, a more or less dead looking instrument panel isn't too uncommon if you've reprogrammed through the DLC. Usually disconnecting and reconecting the battery cables is sufficient to fix that. There's that special isolator that nobody ever uses that's supposed to be used to isolate the PCM from traffic during flashing to prevent this sort of stuff.

I guess I'm still thinking it's some type of voltage problem. WOT puts enough forces on the body to move/flex things a little, I'd be looking for something that might be subject to stresses and strains. Sorry I don't have any better ideas.