Idle Issues

[RacerChris]

I have been tuning with AutoVe for a few days now and my tune is definately getting alot cleaner but I can-not get away from my idle problems. My problem is that when I go into gear (forward or reverse) or when I come to a stop my engine always dies. It has gotten a bit better since Auto VE but the problem is still there and it makes it very hard to tune Auto VE acurately in the 400-800 RPM Cells because I have to keep my foot on the gas and brake to keep it going.
Any suggestions?
BTW, My engine has an SLP lid, smooth belowes, Granateli MAF, 60lb injectors, MSD Coils/wires, NGK plugs (2 steps colder than stock), Comp Cams Cam 222/224 @ .050 W/ .566/.568 lift on 112 degree lobe sep, Comp Cams 1.8:1 Roller rockers, Dynatech Stainless Header System, and Flowmaster cat-back. I am running COS 5 also.
Thanks in advance!

[ViolatorTA]

Have you tried this thread? http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=149

There are more on idle tuning, just do a search in the general section and this section.

I've been finding things on here that I missed while I was out of the "Tuning my car" loop that helped.

[RacerChris]

Thank you for the reply ViolatorTA!
I will read the threads and post if it helped.

[ViolatorTA]

No problem. Let us know.

[SSpdDmon]

What is your base timing in gear set at for idle vs. your base spark in park/neutral???

Have you done the RAFIG and the RAFPN process???

Are you running the stock converter???

What RPMs are you idling at???

[vatman02]

i had the same issue when i put my stock manifold back on nothing i tried worked but this (but i only changed B5932) if all else fails do this



Then I saw this post/thread LS1Tech by P Mack. I tried it and inactivated "Stall Saver". Works like a charm.

here's how to fix rpms dipping when coming to a stop
I feel stupid that I never tried this before. I had my idle airflow tables pretty much dead on and my ve table was damn close. But still when doing parking lot maneuvering and coming off the gas and putting the clutch in, my rpms would drop. It severely pissed me off that I could watch my rpms sit at 300 rpm and never recover while rolling and my IAC/idle trims just sat there like they didn't care. As soon as I came to a stop the IAC would jump into action, but with any speed at all it wouldn't respond. Seems to me that the idle feedback loop should kick in depending on throttle position, not speed. But enough ranting, here is the solution. You have to trick the car into using the timing to recover from rpm dips instead since the IAC won't do it for you. You can do this by making the timing at rpms below your idle (400, 600, maybe 800) higher than the timing at your idle rpm. This applies to the main and base spark tables.

For example, the stock main spark table has 19, 22, and 27 degrees of advance for 400, 600, and 800 rpm. So when you're rolling at 5 mph and the rpms dip, the lower the rpms get, the lower your timing gets. Change it to 35, 30, 25 and like magic no more dipping. Bonus: you shouldn't even need to change your idle airflow tables if you only change the timing at rpms below your idle speed.

Cliff notes: more timing below idle rpm in main and base spark tables

[vatman02]

oh you have automatic not sure if it will work the same but if all else fails why not try it it may not address the cause but it got rid of my head ache

[The Alchemist]

I've just done this on a customers car today with the new cam we have installed. Timing during idle transition was dipping into the 12's on the base and main spark map.
Thru in 20 degrees at the 400 & 800 rpm at loads up to 0.52 and no more stalling
Mike


"For example, the stock main spark table has 19, 22, and 27 degrees of advance for 400, 600, and 800 rpm. So when you're rolling at 5 mph and the rpms dip, the lower the rpms get, the lower your timing gets. Change it to 35, 30, 25 and like magic no more dipping. Bonus: you shouldn't even need to change your idle airflow tables if you only change the timing at rpms below your idle speed.

Cliff notes: more timing below idle rpm in main and base spark tables[/quote]"

[RacerChris]

What is your base timing in gear set at for idle vs. your base spark in park/neutral???

Have you done the RAFIG and the RAFPN process???

Are you running the stock converter???

What RPMs are you idling at???

I have not done the RAFIG or RAFPN process' yet, I am running the stock converter but I am upgrading in about a month to a 3000 stall converter, and I am idleing at 675 up from 550. I adjusted it to try to fix the problem but it didnt help much. Should I switch back to 550?
One last thing.... How to I take a screenshot of my tiing tables so that I can post a pic of it in the forum for you to see and also how do I go about posting the pic?
Thanks again!

[RacerChris]

I've just done this on a customers car today with the new cam we have installed. Timing during idle transition was dipping into the 12's on the base and main spark map.
Thru in 20 degrees at the 400 & 800 rpm at loads up to 0.52 and no more stalling
Mike


"For example, the stock main spark table has 19, 22, and 27 degrees of advance for 400, 600, and 800 rpm. So when you're rolling at 5 mph and the rpms dip, the lower the rpms get, the lower your timing gets. Change it to 35, 30, 25 and like magic no more dipping. Bonus: you shouldn't even need to change your idle airflow tables if you only change the timing at rpms below your idle speed.

Cliff notes: more timing below idle rpm in main and base spark tables

"[/quote]

I will try this and see what happens tomorro... I will let you guys know as soon as I do.
Thanks again!