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Thread: Let's see if this works...

  1. #1
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Default Let's see if this works...

    My idea to combat heat soak in the LS1 has been to securely and remotely suspend the IAT at some point in front of the lid in the path of the air it draws from (i.e. behind the washer fluid resiv...resi...that plastic container thingy that holds the washer fluid - sorry no spell check :lol.

    If shipping goes well, I plan to MacGyver my idea this weekend with some fishing string and this:

    https://www.casperselectronics.com/M...camaro1996upv8

    Yeah, maybe I'm a little crazy for blowing $$$ on something I could splice in an extension on for free. But, this way I don't have to hack up the wiring. My plan...



    ...will be to suspend the IAT sensor just behind/below the hood latch with some fishing string so that it is securely exposed in free air - the same free air the lid pulls from. Without an immediate source for heatsoak, I anticipate good things (i.e. more accurate IAT readings) from this simple relocation. I just hope 3 feet is enough and I'll have to find something to plug the hole in the lid.

    I will post results next week, assuming I get the order this weekend.
    Last edited by SSpdDmon; June 13th, 2007 at 07:54 AM.

  2. #2
    Lifetime Member 5.7ute's Avatar
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    I am suffering from the same IAT swings from heatsoak on my self made aluminium OTRCAI. Since my intake is directly in line with the grille on the front of my car I was thinking about doing something similar but with the added security of a small filter before the sensor to protect it from bug damage etc. Hopefully it will let me have one base tune for IAT's without having to change the A0014 table to keep up with the ever changing ambients here.

  3. #3
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    Taking it out of the stream into turbulant air and moving it further away from the intake. Somehow I think you'll still get problems, just different ones.
    Hope it works out the other way though.

  4. #4
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    To update, the parts came and I have relocated the IAT to just above/behind the washer fluid reservoir. IAT readings are much more accurate to the real temperature of the air entering the lid. NO MORE HEAT SOAK! I sat in a drive through line wating for my burger for just about 5 minutes and never broke 100*F (outside temp was 70*F). 3 blocks down the road, I was back down to the high 80's, and fell into the high 70's once I hopped onto the highway. Before the relocation, I was seeing another 20*F or more on my IAT readings in low airflow scenarios.

    I'm going to keep an eye on things over the next week to see whether or not this has a true effect on anything.
    Last edited by SSpdDmon; June 17th, 2007 at 01:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Lifetime Member mr.prick's Avatar
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    the air box gets hot sitting over the radiator.
    i have been reduced to doing all my logging at sun set or later.
    i have found that heat soak generally makes IAT temp
    10* above the out side air temp. and at a light or at low speeds even higher.
    congrats on your invention.

  6. #6
    Lifetime Member Bruce Melton's Avatar
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    Is this in hopes of curing the hot restart stumble?
    I have been wondering how to beat that-

    2000 C5 Coupe, 6M, Callies/Mahle stroked LS7 (441), Blackwing, Halltech, LS3 intake, 90mm Shaner TB, ported L92 heads, FAST 50# inj, not too much cam, Kooks 1 7/8" headers , 3" catless mid pipes, Z TIs, track suspension, , 3:90 rear, EFI V2, LM-2, etc.
    PowrMax Performance

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  7. #7
    Lifetime Member mr.prick's Avatar
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    if you look when you IAT is high the car will lean out screwing up logged data.

  8. #8
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Melton
    Is this in hopes of curing the hot restart stumble?
    I have been wondering how to beat that-
    This is to combat inconsistent fueling. If you're having hot start problems, I'd try increasing your Startup Friction Airflow Correctoin table for the temps where you're noticing problems.

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    Last edited by SSpdDmon; June 17th, 2007 at 05:31 AM.

  9. #9
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Default I found a typo...

    Jeff, in post #4 you meant "windshield washer reservoir" rather than "coolant reservoir"...

  10. #10
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecar
    Jeff, in post #4 you meant "windshield washer reservoir" rather than "coolant reservoir"...
    Good eye...

    Quick update - I went to a complete MAF tune (MAF threshold set to 400rpm). This combined with the IAT relocation has my AFR's within ~0.5 points on my WBO2. Transitions are now on the rich side instead of the lean side. Other than that, no real side effects noticed yet. Thinking about keeping it this way after a little fine tuning. More to come later...

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