Oh, I didn't realise Caspar's carried the same stuff like Ledfoote.
It's good to have at least 2 sources.
Oh, I didn't realise Caspar's carried the same stuff like Ledfoote.
It's good to have at least 2 sources.
The LC-1 wires are thin, so I put 1-2" of heatshrink tubing on their ends so that the Metripak seals would make a good seal with the wire;
If you put more heatshrink tubing (for strength), then you can't see what colour the wires are, so be sure to label them.
To crimp on the Metripak pins do this (do all wires at each step):
1. Slide seals on wire ends.
2. Strip 1/4" off wire ends (as you pull insulation off, give it a twist to twist wire);
use an electrical stripper tool with the holes, position over wire, rotate a few times and carefully pull away from wire;
LC-1 wires avery thin, so need to use a knife and care not to damage wire.
3. Position seal to be level with end of insulation on stripped wire.
4. Hold crimp tool in right hand so that jaw with 'E' label is upper most;
hold pin in left hand with crimp flaps facing up and pin pointing to right;
position pin into 'E' slot with crimp flaps facing up into 'E' slot, and crimp flaps positioned entirely within width of jaw;
slide wire into crimp flap area, be sure wire barely protrudes past crimp area;
squeeze crimp tool, and then squeeze hard;
remove crimp tool, tug on pin to make sure it's crimped;
you should be able to see the end of the wire barely reach past the end of the crimp area.
5. With fingers, bend seal tabs closer together over seal, centered in seal tab area.
6. Turn crimp tool over so jaw with 'A' label is upper most;
positon 'A' slot over seal tabs (with seal in between) and squeeze;
remove crimp tool and tug again to be sure;
seal should be crimped in middle of seal tab area.
Now, after all wires have pins/seals crimped on their ends (see attached pic):
a. Locate each wire and locate pin labels on connector, align wire/pins with cavities in connector, and push each wire/pin into connector until it clicks.
b. After all wire/pins are in connector, place wire locator clip over wires and push onto end of connector; this keeps the seals in.
c. Test fit by plugging into it's mating connector (if you made it already); don't force it, wiggle it, it will go.
d. When unplugging, grasp connectors, and with thumb or finger lightly push locking tab away from connector while sliding connectors apart;
do not pull on wires when doing this.
Last edited by joecar; October 5th, 2006 at 05:50 AM. Reason: Spelling is atrocious...
Thanks man, both of you. I will be needing those connectors I want to clean up the LC-1 and some other things. I have the pliers but the not the right size connectors.The connectors I have from Summit were just to large to use for the LC-1.
has anybody hooked up a LC-1 to a gauge and at the sametime to EFILive?
Im guessing you put one of the analog outs to the gauge and and the other one to the EFILive, but what about the ground, there is only one. Do i split it so it then can goto both?
thanks
98' White TA A4 TSP 231/237 PP Stage II 59cc heads
401rwhp (unlocked) 1.594 60'-11.60 e.t.-116.98 mph
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98' Sport Gold Metallic TA M6 - 13.39 e.t. Bone Stock
My Trans Ams
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2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 5.3L LS4 (wifes car) stock (for now)
I just installed dual lc1's on the bird. Just need to wire in the NB simulations.
Two LC-1's... I like that, it gives info about both banks...
Does this mean that your BEN pid will be an average of the two...?
yessir. think i may have a minor exhaust leak. left bank runs a little leaner than right.
More pictures...
Last edited by joecar; May 6th, 2015 at 03:49 AM.
In the first picture (passenger compartment footwell), these cables have matching 3-way/6-way connectors tucked up under dash (behind underdash cover); cables on other side of connectors go thru firewall, past PCM into engine bay, past exhaust manifold (fourth picture), down to AC compressor, to K-member (second picture), to 3-way/6-way sockets which LC-1 plugs into (last picture);
LC-1 sits on K-member without touching trans cooler lines (second picture).
WBO2 sensor cable comes out front of LC-1, turns 180 deg, goes back past K-member to bung in front of cat (third picture).
LC-1 (last picture) connects to NBO2 socket (located near bung in front of cat) and to 3-way/6-way sockets.
I had my friend take these pictures at work, and we had no means to get underneath car.
Last edited by joecar; March 2nd, 2006 at 05:15 AM.
Joe thanks for the links I ordered :I had the larger set allready, do you know what would be great? If there was some list out there that had all of the part numbers and quantaties needed to make a complete harness for us restomodifiers out there. You know the guy that wants to make there own harness to fit there particular need and custom cut to length. that would be sweet is there a way to get those numbers? will it be listed on a parts manual the parts depot at the dealer would have?
1 x Metripack/GT Heavy Duty Removal Tool 1 x Weatherpack Removal Tool 1 x Metripack Connecter Kit/ Free Multimeter 1 x Sealed Relay Kit