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Thread: LC-1 widband hook up

  1. #81
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecar
    That's right, you leave the WBO2 in for a few weeks while you tune, and then you put your NBO2 back in (...why waste a perfectly good NBO2...).

    ...Unless you want to auto tune everytime you drive...

    :slugging down a beer:
    pops head up from the trenches! That was my plan!

  3. #83
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    My LC-1 has been in ever since I got it, and my NBO2 is on my bench for purpose of gazing at...

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    For me it would be a convenience thing, as in once the widebands are in I cannot be arsed getting under the car to swap over! I think I'm going down the 2 widebands route - gives a backup and better picture if both working

  5. #85
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    guys

    I've gotten my old nb off and was about to start following Joes superb instructions but I hit my first stumbling block!

    My nb connector is totally different from the ones you've described. Instead of a 4 way square it is a flat four way connector - imagine a large connector from inside a pc connecting to say an old IDE hard drive.

    What is the pin outs on these?

    There original colours are 2 browns next to each other then a purple then a sort of light brown - I just want to double and tipple check before I start hacking away.

    Also the reason my nb failed? The crimps used by the tuners to extend the wire came loose - effing annoying!

  6. #86
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stigmundfreud
    guys

    I've gotten my old nb off and was about to start following Joes superb instructions but I hit my first stumbling block!

    My nb connector is totally different from the ones you've described. Instead of a 4 way square it is a flat four way connector - imagine a large connector from inside a pc connecting to say an old IDE hard drive.

    What is the pin outs on these?

    There original colours are 2 browns next to each other then a purple then a sort of light brown - I just want to double and tipple check before I start hacking away.

    Also the reason my nb failed? The crimps used by the tuners to extend the wire came loose - effing annoying!
    Check to make sure the connector is labeled. It should tell you which wire is A, B, C, and D.
    http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.ph...9&postcount=72

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
    Check to make sure the connector is labeled. It should tell you which wire is A, B, C, and D.
    http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.ph...9&postcount=72

    you are a star, yes embossed on the underside is abcd in reverse order!

    Cheers!!!

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
    I had to update this somewhat, so I deleted my original from page one.

    Ok, here's how I did it so everyone can have a common point of knowledge....




    **Edit** I wasn't able to figure out what to do to get the simulated NB signal to "switch" before I sold my LC1. When hooked to the car in closed loop, it would show .440~.460mv consistently. Unfortunately, this is not a true simulation of our sensors. I've updated my write-up (02/13/07) to show the last known way that should work for the NBO2 simulation. However, I am unable to test this without my LC1. Until someone figures out how to fix this for sure, THE ABOVE SETUP WILL ONLY WORK IN OPEN LOOP OPERATION. If someone figures out how to fix this, please let me know so that I can update this walk-thru. Also, it is no longer necessary to change the LC1 output and select the Tech Edge .pid. The factory output and default EFI Live formulas should work. Thanks!

    My understanding is that the Innovate LC-1 (#1) output works just as the original nbo2. Switching occurs in response to fueling where 1.1v = a 14 AFR. If the voltage is above 1.1v its considered rich. If its below 1.1v its lean. The PCM does not know how lean or how rich it just changes the fueling to drive it the opposite direction until a switch occurs then drives it back the other way. Over a period of time the magnatude of the fuel changes are reduced so that the switching now occurs very close above and below 1.1v. The switching times should be very quick at this point and this would now indicate a fairly good stoich.

    Any other clarification on this issue? If not I guess I should talk to someone at Innovate.

    Thanks
    LEC
    1964 Red Corvette Coupe, 365Hp, 4Spd, 4:11 Positraction, side exhaust. Original Owner.

    2002 MYellow Corvette Coupe, 447Hp, Auto, 2.73:1 Positraction, Magnuson Supercharger, B&B Catback, K&N Filter, ACI Cowl Induction Hood and Rear Spoiler.

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    1.1 = 14 afr?!? Surely its 0.45 or there abouts for 14.7. Above 0.45 the car is rich, below it is lean but by how much no one knows (unless the wb is also hooked up)?

  10. #90
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    This is how the LC-1 simulates the NBO2:

    it is programmed something like this (approximate values):

    50 mV == AFR 15.1
    1000 mV == AFR 14.3

    This is a fairly steep downstep...



    (arrgghhh... I forgot to click the "use air-fuel-ratio" hole, but you still get the picture).

    approximately midway between those is 400~500 mV which corresponds to AFR 14.7 (stoichiometric air:fuel ratio for gasoline)...

    the PCM commands some fuel, and say it's turns out to be a little lean (PCM doesn't know this just yet), the O2 sensor then reports say 200 mV (leaner than 14.7), the PCM sees this and now commands a little richer, then O2 sensor reports say 700 mV (richer than 14.7) the PCM see this and now commands a little leaner, and the cycle repeats several times per second.

    The steep downstep transfer function allows this voltage switching to occur between the PCM and NBO2 (the PCM drives it, the NBO2 responds to it).

    Last edited by joecar; August 14th, 2007 at 03:18 AM.

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