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Thread: LC-1 and FlashScan

  1. #21
    Unknown Zone TAQuickness's Avatar
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    if you were using the wrong calc, you should re-do the autotune.

  2. #22
    Lifetime Member BowlingSS's Avatar
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    I brough my wires up through the plug on the drivers side. I then spliced into the pink wire that runs right by the drivers seat. I also used the ground that is right in front left of the drivers seat. I used a 5 amp fuse for the power. I then ran my wires back through the slit in the carpet under the driver seat. If you have a power seat you will see the power connection for the seat. I connected my FlashScan under the seat and brought the USB connection to the pass seat to connect to my notebook. It works OK right now. I might try to run the wires into the dash later.

    Bill
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  3. #23
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BowlingSS
    I brough my wires up through the plug on the drivers side. I then spliced into the pink wire that runs right by the drivers seat. I also used the ground that is right in front left of the drivers seat. I used a 5 amp fuse for the power. I then ran my wires back through the slit in the carpet under the driver seat. If you have a power seat you will see the power connection for the seat. I connected my FlashScan under the seat and brought the USB connection to the pass seat to connect to my notebook. It works OK right now. I might try to run the wires into the dash later.

    Bill
    But, isn't that a full-time power source if you tap into the power seat? I was under the impression you need a "switched" 12v source that only works with the key in the run position. Otherwise, your O2 heater is constantly powered, which can affect the life of the sensor and may drain your battery faster. Am I off on this one?

  4. #24
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
    Quote Originally Posted by BowlingSS
    I brough my wires up through the plug on the drivers side. I then spliced into the pink wire that runs right by the drivers seat. I also used the ground that is right in front left of the drivers seat. I used a 5 amp fuse for the power. I then ran my wires back through the slit in the carpet under the driver seat. If you have a power seat you will see the power connection for the seat. I connected my FlashScan under the seat and brought the USB connection to the pass seat to connect to my notebook. It works OK right now. I might try to run the wires into the dash later.

    Bill
    But, isn't that a full-time power source if you tap into the power seat? I was under the impression you need a "switched" 12v source that only works with the key in the run position. Otherwise, your O2 heater is constantly powered, which can affect the life of the sensor and may drain your battery faster. Am I off on this one?
    SSpdDmon is correct -> battery'll drain overnite unless your 02S heater source is switched.

  5. #25
    Lifetime Member BowlingSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
    Quote Originally Posted by BowlingSS
    I brough my wires up through the plug on the drivers side. I then spliced into the pink wire that runs right by the drivers seat. I also used the ground that is right in front left of the drivers seat. I used a 5 amp fuse for the power. I then ran my wires back through the slit in the carpet under the driver seat. If you have a power seat you will see the power connection for the seat. I connected my FlashScan under the seat and brought the USB connection to the pass seat to connect to my notebook. It works OK right now. I might try to run the wires into the dash later.

    Bill
    But, isn't that a full-time power source if you tap into the power seat? I was under the impression you need a "switched" 12v source that only works with the key in the run position. Otherwise, your O2 heater is constantly powered, which can affect the life of the sensor and may drain your battery faster. Am I off on this one?
    The wire I used was switched. I did not use the power seat power wire. The wire I used was in the wiring harness that went by the seat.

    Bill
    2011 Camaro 2SS/RS L99 RJT
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    Elite Engineering Tunnel Brace,
    Gorilla Wheel Lock System;
    Tinted Windows 35%;EFILive Tune

  6. #26
    Unknown Zone TAQuickness's Avatar
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    you can also use the wiring harness off an old O2 sensor, plug it in to the rear O2 connector, and use the switched 12VDC power from there.

    HOWEVER, do not use the ground from that location - Only the power!

  7. #27
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAQuickness
    you can also use the wiring harness off an old O2 sensor, plug it in to the rear O2 connector, and use the switched 12VDC power from there.

    HOWEVER, do not use the ground from that location - Only the power!
    Why not? It goes to a central ground...the same one all four NBO2's go to. To date, I haven't had issues with it. Should I be concerned??


  8. #28
    Unknown Zone TAQuickness's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
    Quote Originally Posted by TAQuickness
    you can also use the wiring harness off an old O2 sensor, plug it in to the rear O2 connector, and use the switched 12VDC power from there.

    HOWEVER, do not use the ground from that location - Only the power!
    Why not? It goes to a central ground...the same one all four NBO2's go to. To date, I haven't had issues with it. Should I be concerned??

    If your's is working, I'd say that's AWESOME... My LC1 didn't care for it. Once I the white and blue wire tied to chassis ground, everything fell into place.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAQuickness
    If your's is working, I'd say that's AWESOME... My LC1 didn't care for it. Once I the white and blue wire tied to chassis ground, everything fell into place.
    Thank you for the ground idea.
    I thought I had a bad sensor, had tried heater cal and free air several times.
    Could not get a solid glow from the led.
    It would set a 2 or 4 error, and sometimes it would blink very erratic

    I then read all the LC-1 stuff on here, found this thread.
    unplugged the ground from the narrowband heater ground
    hooked it to a glovebox screw for a quick check
    and BAM, blinking for warm-up then solid

    thanks alot for your post

  10. #30
    Senior Member WicketMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistermike
    Above is incorrect. The LC-1 outputs 0V @ 7.35 AFR not 0.5 V as originally thought.

    What are the correct numbers to put in the sae_generic file?

    i searched and im finding different results

    Is it 0v-5v and 10-18afr or 7.35-18afr? or something different and is the calculation still -5}*3.3418)+7.35 ?

    thanks

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