Tune for a procharger?

[ForcefeedWS6]

Does anyone have a tune for a stock 00 ws6 m6 with a procharger that they would share? I plan on putting in 42#ers and run 8psi. I'm going to try and swap mine over to a newer os and put in a custom for FI. It would be nice to have something it will run on till I get it figured out how to change it over. Thanks guys.

[Redline Motorsports]

Just start by changing the OS, change the IFR table to reflect your new injectors, pull some timing out of the timing tables over 3000 rpm, set your commanded AFR to 11.5, raise the MAF fail frequency and buy a wide band and start logging data.

[SSpdDmon]

Just start by changing the OS, change the IFR table to reflect your new injectors, pull some timing out of the timing tables over 3000 rpm, set your commanded AFR to 11.5, raise the MAF fail frequency and buy a wide band and start logging data.

"Some" can mean very different numbers to different people. Maybe we can get a little more clarification here?

I'm curious about boosted applications....and the differences between something like a ProCharger vs. a Magnacharger. AFR is usually the easy thing to dial in. But, I'm at a loss when it comes to timing.

[Redline Motorsports]

"Some" can mean very different numbers to different people. Maybe we can get a little more clarification here?

I'm curious about boosted applications....and the differences between something like a ProCharger vs. a Magnacharger. AFR is usually the easy thing to dial in. But, I'm at a loss when it comes to timing.

I guess I was just trying to send him into a direction so he could learn on his own as opposed to dumping someone elses tune into his car.

Here are some tips to consider relative to spark between a centrifigal blower and a positive displacement style;

Since a centrifigal builds boost with rpm, boost is relatively lower at lower rpms. Basically the motor is still close to "N/A" down low and can tolerate some more timing down there. This also helps pull the blower up through the rpms into more boost. As boost starts to build, timing can be reduced as you approach peak torque. After peak you can start to add a couple more degrees "carefully". A positive displacement blower builds boost almost immediately so timing needs to be controlled right away.

Fueling as a similiar protocol. The centrifigals can be run leaner down low and then as boost builds start bringing in the fuel to control heat build up.

The PD blowers need fuel right out of the gate.

IAT spark reduction is an important table to calibrate since air temps have a large effect on overall timing. I typically will zero this table out and get my high octane table in check and then go back and use the reduction table to fine tune temps that approach knock limits.

[SSpdDmon]

Cool...thanks! I wasn't trying to criticize. Just looking for further explanation.

[Redline Motorsports]

Cool...thanks! I wasn't trying to criticize. Just looking for further explanation.

No offense takin'! If you want to discuss further feel free to PM me!

Howard

[ForcefeedWS6]

Thanks for the info Redline. What's a good amount of spark to start taking out at 3000 rpm? So do I set up the new injectors then start adding some to them at 3000? I ordered a wb should be here in the next day or so. I don't just want to put someone elses tune in it and go. I just thought if I had something close I might be able to drive it while I figure out the process of changing my os to a 02 os. I plan on doing away with the maf and put in a map I can log boost with. Thanks again.

[Redline Motorsports]

I would start with a stock 2004 ZO6 timing table and subtract 5 degrees of timing from 2000 and up and starting at .56 DYNCLAIR and up. This is reasonable start for a centrifigul blower with boost up to 7 psi.

The injectors need to be set up first. Which blower are you using? Are you running colder plugs? What kind of fuel system do you have?

The custom OS's work great for boost. Get a 2 bar map and ditch the MAF!

As far as driving it now......you should be fine as long as you don't lace into it. As long as the car stays in closed loop the PCM will keep the AFR at or new 14.63. Your fuel trims may be 10-13 % but it should get you around for now. I wouldn't get into any serious tuning until you get a wide band setup. Also read some of the tutorials on custom os's and AutoVE tuning.

Howard

[ForcefeedWS6]

I put a D1SC on at 8psi hopefully. I got a racetronix fuel pump to put in, that just came today. I'm waiting on the injectors from the guy I bought the charger from. I got it running tonight after installing the charger this weekend. It had a bit of a unstable idle because the guy I got the car from ported out the maf and did a really bad job. With the blower on it it really has a wacked idle now. Takes a bit to settle down then jumps around if you touch the gas. This is still with a stock tune and a very poorly ported maf. I'm not going to try and drive it till I get my wb installed. What plugs would you run?

[Redline Motorsports]

Another reason to get rid of the MAF. Is there cam in the car? Should idle somewhat decent on the stock tune.

I would run NGK TR6's gapped to .032".