Knock retard on LQ9 - '06 Escalade (HELP!)

[Boost]

I am tuning a 2006 2WD Escalade. I flashed it with a program that I thought was pretty smooth - worked wonders on a couple SS Silverados - which also have an "HO" 6 liter (LQ9). 345 hp, 380 tq, I made sure that all parameters I modified were identical between the Super Sport Silverados and the Escalade. However, I am not getting a good response from the SUV. It is retarding 6 degrees under acceleration with high octane fuel (93). Why is this?

(Log file coming soon to this thread - good tuners needed for analysis)

[Gordy M]

I thought the 2wd Escalades were 5.3L motors and the 4wd were 6.0L. At least that was true in 2004. HTH

[Boost]

As far as I know one was able to order a RWD 6.0 liter up to '06. I know for sure I am working one. Maybe you could get any configuration of 5.3/6.0/rwd/4wd, or maybe the 4wd only carried the 6 liter.

[cmitchell17]

The Burst knock settings dont show up on the KR pid I dont think.

On my truck I would get random 6 degree retard in 2nd gear wot.

I zeroed the burst knock tables and it went away.

Ive heard its better to just zero the tables then try to make them work.

[Boost]

What is burst knock? And are you saying that I am picking up a false 6 degrees of retard under acceleration? That would "burst" my theory that the tune is not making power since it's ACTUALLY retarding 6 degrees. I know I still have to post the log file. Thanks

[cmitchell17]

I dont think I can trust my Knock sensors becuase they seem not to be working.

There are tables for burst knock that are supposed to retard timing when the PCM sees a rapid change in airflow or airmass(I might be wrong on that). When it sees this it retards timing a lot. I think its purpose is to quickly retard it so knock does not get the chance to even start happening. Its hard to get rid of once it starts. The stock settings ive heard are very agressive and ive heard its better to just zero it out and disable it. Some people say it actually causes knock. I think this might have been the case for me when I zeroed it I no longer saw that random 6-7 degrees of knock.

[Boost]

Please let me know if I uploaded the log file ok. If so, can someone please review it and give me some input regarding my original question? Thanks!

[cmitchell17]

I did see any KR in your scan. But its hard to see stuff without some PID's like throttle position.

You can tell your running the stock timing becuase it looks pretty low.

Your IAT's are also very high I think. In the 90degree weather I have my IAT's are usally at about 90 degrees but never go about about 115, and thats when im sitting.

Ive found that when I get heat soak and high IAT's the KR starts to show and I can hear it.

I hear completly stock trucks knock, and see them knock on the scanner.

[Boost]

Thanks for taking the time to look at it. Actually both the low and high octane tables were advanced, but with moderation. I planned on pushing it some more for power but I ran into this issue. It was a very hot day, and I know high IATs can contribute to knock. I will do another log on a cooler day, what additional PIDs need I select besides TP? My main concern is to safely extract more power out of this vehicle.

[Boost]

Also, this could be why you didn't see the KR:

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=6127

I saw up to 7 degrees at times, and not much additional power was felt.