Loose converter/shifting.

[VHR]

I'm battling a 01 F body that I cant make shift before it hits the limiter @6500. Because the converter is so loose,(flashes to 5000 approx) I dont think I could move the shift @rpm down without confusing the pcm.
My next thought is to shift by mph. I'm wondering how best to go about that. Would you put the shift @rpm to say 3000 then play with the shift @ mph to get the shifts I wanted? What would you recommend with regard to part throttle shift tables? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks, Vinny.

[WiseGuyZ06]

I'm battling a 01 F body that I cant make shift before it hits the limiter @6500. Because the converter is so loose,(flashes to 5000 approx) I dont think I could move the shift @rpm down without confusing the pcm.
My next thought is to shift by mph. I'm wondering how best to go about that. Would you put the shift @rpm to say 3000 then play with the shift @ mph to get the shifts I wanted? What would you recommend with regard to part throttle shift tables? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks, Vinny.

I think I have a solution for you.... lemme check

[WiseGuyZ06]

Ok here is how you make the tranny shift based on MPH and NOT on RPM...

1. Go to transmission calabration in the tuning tool

2. Click on general

3. Click on parameters

4. Change (D1206) upper threshold to 100

5. Change (D1207) lower threshhold to 99.9

This method disables the WOT shift tables in the pcm and it allows you to use the part throttle tables insted, which are in MPH

OK HALF WAY THERE...

Next go to TRANSMISSION CALABRATION in the tuning tool again

1. Click on 1->2 shift speed look at 100.0 cell on the left and change it to whatever MPH you want the trans to shift at...

then do the same to 2->3 and 3->4 shift speed tables and change the 100.0 cell to whatever MPH you want...

YOURE DONE....

Its a PITA to cross MPH with RPM to try to findout what MPH you want the trans to shift at... It can be done it just takes time.....

[VHR]

"Its a PITA to cross MPH with RPM to try to findout what MPH you want the trans to shift at... It can be done it just takes time....."


I kind of anticipated that part of tuning it this way because there is a lag of about 1k rpm at 1-2 and about 600 at 2-3 so I think I'm going to have to guess at those mph targets. I think it's my way forward though.

I greatly appreciate your taking the time to help.

Vinny

[WiseGuyZ06]

"Its a PITA to cross MPH with RPM to try to findout what MPH you want the trans to shift at... It can be done it just takes time....."


I kind of anticipated that part of tuning it this way because there is a lag of about 1k rpm at 1-2 and about 600 at 2-3 so I think I'm going to have to guess at those mph targets. I think it's my way forward though.

I greatly appreciate your taking the time to help.

Vinny

I hear ya bro.... BUT Ive done it so its not too bad...At least you dont have to mess with MPH and RPM...

I have a 4500 vig stall and it dont flash at 5000rpm, 3900 RPM max with my old 346ci setup footbreaking at 2500 RPM's at the track.. what brand stall do you have and whats the setup of the motor??

I still use the WOT shift tables, BUT I can use part throttle whenever I want...

[VHR]

The car I'm having trouble with is not mine so the specs as best I know: ls1, MTI in Texas did the car so it has ported stage II heads, cam is around 585" lift,
3.73's. The converter is a Yank 4400 that he sent out to be tightened but still flashes about 4200.

I honestly don't know why it hits the limiter in 2nd, but it has not responded to lower the shift at rpm, even with lowering the shift at mph. It is definitely not mechanical in the trans because you can see that its not commanding the shifts in the data logs.

He's this close to making it a manual valve body, but I still would like to see if shifting by mph only will help.

As an aside, MY car usually does not hit limiter-but I shift at 6800 and the limiter is set at 7800. He does not want to go there.

Thanks, Vinny

[WiseGuyZ06]

The car I'm having trouble with is not mine so the specs as best I know: ls1, MTI in Texas did the car so it has ported stage II heads, cam is around 585" lift,
3.73's. The converter is a Yank 4400 that he sent out to be tightened but still flashes about 4200.

I honestly don't know why it hits the limiter in 2nd, but it has not responded to lower the shift at rpm, even with lowering the shift at mph. It is definitely not mechanical in the trans because you can see that its not commanding the shifts in the data logs.

He's this close to making it a manual valve body, but I still would like to see if shifting by mph only will help.

As an aside, MY car usually does not hit limiter-but I shift at 6800 and the limiter is set at 7800. He does not want to go there.

Thanks, Vinny

Whats your car??? details... 7800 rpm's??? details please...

A 4l60e manual valvebody would be cool.. its the trans-go kit... I dont know anybody who's tried it yet

[VHR]

Mine is a 00 ls1, stock bottom end except for ls2 timing chain guide and ported oil pump. Oh, and the pistons I had to notch for valve clearance-I used an Isky tool that centers in the valve guides. I did have the pan off to clean the debris out from drilling the block for the chain guide, but not one rod bolt was loosened. Motor only has 40k on it.

The heads are home ported 5.3 with 2.00" Manley valves. I will tell you up front, the heads didn't turn out that well-flow too well at low lifts, too turbulent at high lifts. I learned first hand how peculier these heads are. Flat milled .050. Will not do that ever again, will angle mill. Try better next time.

This brings us to the root of all evil in this combo, the cam. Now remember, this whole deal was just an experiment. The cam was custom ground by Bullet cams.

.630/.640, 302/308 on a 109 ctr. The lifters are stock GM but blocked, limited travel approx .015. To use stock rockers I had to have pushrods made(Smith Brothers) and I ended up with about 8 different lengths over about an .025 range. I still had to do some shimming to the rocker pedestals. If you want to know how to make rocker shims from feeler gauge stock, let me know. I'm a believer in stiff pushrods so they are 3/8. Tight, but no clearance issues with stock rockers.

I really didn't intend to spin the motor this high but...my converter vendor missed my stall speed by, oh, about 3000 rpm. Flashed to about 2200. 1.7 60's. It was late in the year, two or three weeks left before the track closed, and I guess I did want to see where the motor would pull to and gears were cheaper than a day on the dyno. Out came the 4.10's in went some 4.88's. 60's came down to low 1.6's ant my best et came down to 11.36. Six hundredths slower than my buddies car.

This year, late again after learning to weld and putting a roll bar and a new converter in...I'm only 2 thousands away. But I'm not done yet. I have an LS6 intake cut open to shorten the runners and if I can get it to stop breaking the cut out section, I'm hopeful.

I hope I haven't bored you with too many "details". I may nut's but stand or fall, I have the satisfaction of knowing I did every GD thing myself except the trans.

I just counted my slips, 40 passes so far.

Vinny

[WiseGuyZ06]

Mine is a 00 ls1, stock bottom end except for ls2 timing chain guide and ported oil pump. Oh, and the pistons I had to notch for valve clearance-I used an Isky tool that centers in the valve guides. I did have the pan off to clean the debris out from drilling the block for the chain guide, but not one rod bolt was loosened. Motor only has 40k on it.

The heads are home ported 5.3 with 2.00" Manley valves. I will tell you up front, the heads didn't turn out that well-flow too well at low lifts, too turbulent at high lifts. I learned first hand how peculier these heads are. Flat milled .050. Will not do that ever again, will angle mill. Try better next time.

This brings us to the root of all evil in this combo, the cam. Now remember, this whole deal was just an experiment. The cam was custom ground by Bullet cams.

.630/.640, 302/308 on a 109 ctr. The lifters are stock GM but blocked, limited travel approx .015. To use stock rockers I had to have pushrods made(Smith Brothers) and I ended up with about 8 different lengths over about an .025 range. I still had to do some shimming to the rocker pedestals. If you want to know how to make rocker shims from feeler gauge stock, let me know. I'm a believer in stiff pushrods so they are 3/8. Tight, but no clearance issues with stock rockers.

I really didn't intend to spin the motor this high but...my converter vendor missed my stall speed by, oh, about 3000 rpm. Flashed to about 2200. 1.7 60's. It was late in the year, two or three weeks left before the track closed, and I guess I did want to see where the motor would pull to and gears were cheaper than a day on the dyno. Out came the 4.10's in went some 4.88's. 60's came down to low 1.6's ant my best et came down to 11.36. Six hundredths slower than my buddies car.

This year, late again after learning to weld and putting a roll bar and a new converter in...I'm only 2 thousands away. But I'm not done yet. I have an LS6 intake cut open to shorten the runners and if I can get it to stop breaking the cut out section, I'm hopeful.

I hope I haven't bored you with too many "details". I may nut's but stand or fall, I have the satisfaction of knowing I did every GD thing myself except the trans.

I just counted my slips, 40 passes so far.

Vinny

Cool, good luck....

[VHR]

Just a word of thanks Wise, that worked.

Vinny