Newbie - Calling all 07 TBSS Tuners

[WyoSS]

Let me start by saying this site is great. I've spend a bunch of time searching this forum. It seems like there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site. I'm glad to see that other TBSS'ers are tuning their own vehicles.

Could someone take a look at my stock Setup?

Here is my stock Torque Reduction 1->2 Shift {D1104}

Here is my stock Torque Reduction 2->3 Shift {D2104}

Here is my stock Torque Reduction 3->4 Shift {D3104}


Here is my stock Desired 1->2 Shift Time {D1101}

Here is my stock Desired 2->3 Shift Time {D2101}

3->4 is all zeros

I followed Jocar's tutorial, but I'm a little unsure of the adjustments I made.

So, when I decrease the TQ Reduction should I reduce each data point in the table by about 10%? Can I get away with tweaking the curve, i.e., change the profile? Or am I better off keeping the stock profile, but reducing each entry by a set amount?

[GMPX]

Nice post, well presented images.

Basically what will occur with you reducing the Trq Managment is the trans will shift a little quicker, you need to then have that work with you, not against you so that is why the shift time tables need to also be changed.

Not sure what it is like on the TBSS but it's normally the moderate to full throttle shifts that you want to change (unless you think the part throttles are too strung out too). So for the high load shifts just change the curve of both tables for that area (High Torque, High TPS).

Cheers,
Ross

[ScarabEpic22]

Hey man, I havent tuned a SS yet but know a ton about them. Basically dont remove all the TM, go for like 15-20% of original to keep the trans together and lower the shift times to something that is comfortable for you. The regular TB guys can get away with running 0 shift times and 0 TM (like me), but the LS2 will rip apart the 4L70E in a heartbeat if you dont leave some granny built in or build the trans.

[Rhino79]

Yeah, I would 0 the times and personally I would remove all the TQ MGT, but thats just me.

[ScarabEpic22]

Yeah, I would 0 the times and personally I would remove all the TQ MGT, but thats just me.

Have to disagree with you man, the trans coupled to the TB SS is really really weak (ie blowing up grandma driving them without a tune), so take it easy on the trans aggression until you have it to a safe level or can afford to buy a built trans.

[WyoSS]

Thanks for the responses. I took about 10% TQ reduction out and quickened my shift times. I also boosted the line pressure 5%.

I went to setup the scanner couldn’t find the line pressure. I think its CPS (something like that), but I don’t have that parameter. Do I need to update the T42 files, E67, or both? Thanks again.

[Chuck CoW]

Have to disagree with you man, the trans coupled to the TB SS is really really weak (ie blowing up grandma driving them without a tune), so take it easy on the trans aggression until you have it to a safe level or can afford to buy a built trans.

I would have to agree with the "zero is best" method..... I can't begin to tell you have many of these I've tuned and No problems or failures to date.....

Surely, it's all about feel and driver comfort however....If you got the rest of the tune right and make smart changes to the pressure control tables, you can deliver and explosively fast vehicle with good part throttle shift feel and and a WOT shift that will kick your azz.....

An automatic trans (engine tune has a lot to do with it too...) is not nearly as simple a people might think....

The impression I get from the forums is "we'll add some pressure here, remove TQ managment here, and make it shift a bit later here....DONE."

Frankly, I'm a "zero" man.... Shut it all off... However, you have to make the engine and trans work together....My best advice is to "think" about what the trans is trying to do.... Once you figure that out.... You'll never have a problem with trans blowing.....

Haven't lost one yet!
Chuck CoW

[kbracing96]

One thing you guys might want to consider too, is looking at his user name, he is in Wyoming (I'm gona guess Casper) Which is high elevation (probable 4500+ft), so he's not making near as much power as a lot of the TBSS you guys tune, so dropping most if not all of the TM is not nears as big of a deal.

[WyoSS]

Good guess KB, but I'm a little closer to 6700' (Saratoga). I know that I'm making quite a bit less HP at this elevation. I don't take my TBSS to the track, so I just want firmer shifts and increased trans life.

I didn't really notice much of a difference after making those adjustments. When I had my Silverado SS I had all TQ management removed, but I'm not sure what the tuner did with the shift times and or pressure. It was a mail order tune.

My main concern is making an adjustment that will greatly reduce the life of the trans.

[Maggie]

An automatic trans (engine tune has a lot to do with it too...) is not nearly as simple a people might think....

Exactly! Well said Chuck.
Engine, converter and trans have to live in harmony. It's important to understand how each works with the other.

Not all people drive the same. A tune that might provide a long drive train life for some may come unraveled with someone else behind the wheel.

....My best advice is to "think" about what the trans is trying to do....

Again, Good advice! From reading post, both here and elsewhere, it seems to me that many people jump in and start making changes without a basic understanding of mechanical function and resulting effect.

Once you figure that out.... You'll never have a problem with trans blowing.....

Yep, but...Something to consider is how mechanically sound the trans/converter is to begin with. I have seen mechanical problems in transmissions with very low miles. An inspection of the tranny beforehand can save frustration down the road.
Even the best tune is doomed if there is something amiss internally.

Haven't lost one yet!
Chuck CoW