PLEASE!!! Hooked the LC1 up to see if i could do an auto ve. if i post a log can you guys tell me if my wb looks to be working right and anything i need to do different. thanks
PLEASE!!! Hooked the LC1 up to see if i could do an auto ve. if i post a log can you guys tell me if my wb looks to be working right and anything i need to do different. thanks
Something isn't right. There are a bunch of spikes in the LC1 data with no apparent cause. The question is-- are things really going lean, or is there a bad connection in the LC1 wiring.
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Ditto.
Noisy signal... does the cable run close to the spark wires...?
Or bad/noisy ground connection.
it doesn't run real close to the wires...but that can easily be fixed i guess...and yes it prolly has a bad connection on the lc1 wiring. i just kinda threw it on to try it out. i've been dyno tuned before so the a/f isn't actually that shakey.
what about my ve map? numbers aren't supposed to be that big are they?
Ditto noisy ground
System ground, analog ground, goto the Data port ground
Heater ground, best location I have found on a hardwired LC-1 unit is the back of the head.
On my portable LC-1's it varies by the vehicle for a clean, appropriate, accessable heater ground location.
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Once the wiring is tidied up, compare the AFR indication in EFI Live to that in LogWorks to see that they're reading the same. Key on, engine off will give you a stable steady reading once the engine has been run.
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guys i can't figure this thing out at all...tried again today, got the sensor plugged in and then everything hooked up, turned on the laptap started logging, looked ok idling around 13.xx(i just put a cam in) then i went to calibrate the sensor(touch the black wire to a ground)and the reading went to 25.xx af with like a 6.2v reading...i got mad and walked away, came back after awhile, fired it back up and the reading was back down to 13.xx with like a 2.Xv reading...there are no changes in a/f reading with movement of the throttle...i'm so confused, as i'm sure most of you will be by the time you're done reading this post
Are you doing a free-air calibration or are you grounding the black wire with the sensor in the exhaust shortly after running the engine?
Also, are you still seeing the jittery output you posted before? That was almost certainly a poor signal ground.
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Free air calibration should be 20.9-20.8 , and you can't do it the exhaust after running engine it has to removed from bung and in free air .
Like someone else said LogWorks will show a lot of info , start LogWorks right after turning key on and it should show percentage of heater function and then AFR after heater has reached temp .
Ground to the block if at all possible .
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I've used an electric leaf blower to clear out the exhaust for calibrating. Seems to work pretty well if you have a H or Y pipe.
World's First Twin Screw Pontiac GTO
2004 GTO. Blown H/C 408, stage 3 keyboard, billet tires
2017 Chevy SS with dead hooker is spacious trunk
2014 Chevy Cruze. MPG queen with my balls in spacious glove compartment.
www.aussiemotive.com