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Thread: Check my tune out

  1. #1
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    Default Check my tune out

    hey guys, well i've been playing with the tune for a little bit. I just wanted to post it to see if any of you guys see anything wrong with it. Its a little bit modified from a mail order tune Jesse did. How are the spark tables ect? or can anyone modify it?
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    Last edited by blazinblue; November 9th, 2007 at 01:03 PM.

  2. #2
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    Your PE ARF needs to be 12.5-12.8. Why do you have it set at stoich?

    Your timing looks good but you might want to lower it a little and run the extra timing through the fuel spark correction table.

    Is the truck stock?

  3. #3
    Lifetime Member Doc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmitchell17
    Your PE ARF needs to be 12.5-12.8.
    No it does not. Generally speaking your commanded fueling should be 12.5-12.8 for a NA setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by cmitchell17
    Why do you have it set at stoich?
    Because PE is only one of two tables the pcm (it always uses the richer of the two) uses for commanded fueling when you depart closed loop.

    To the OP, do you have a WBO2?

    2000 Silverado Full Size 4x4: Forged 6.2, H/C F1R Procharger
    98A4 Z28: 02 PCM H/C Forged 347, 9" Moser 3.73
    V1 V2 99+up RR COS #5 OLSD Dual Stg N20
    www.efialchemy.com
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  4. #4
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    Yes i have the LC-1, but im having lots of trouble installing it, so its not running. The mods i have:

    gibson shorty headers,
    K&N intake
    1-2 vette servo
    4:10 gears
    True dual flowmaster exahaust no cats

    also what other places should i adjust to get some extra ponies?

  5. #5
    Lifetime Member Doc's Avatar
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    All of your further potential at this point is going to be found based on the readings you get from the WBO2. Getting the LC-1 setup right is paramount. Jesse has setup a good foundation for you.

    2000 Silverado Full Size 4x4: Forged 6.2, H/C F1R Procharger
    98A4 Z28: 02 PCM H/C Forged 347, 9" Moser 3.73
    V1 V2 99+up RR COS #5 OLSD Dual Stg N20
    www.efialchemy.com
    www.greatamericancarwar.com

  6. #6
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    Yes the tune jesse did works good. If i can get some help on installing the LC-1? At first it seemed to work fine, it would warm up and the led would flash steady and i would take it for a log. Only did it one time. But then now when i put power trough the WB, the led flashes on and off meaning its warming up. But once i connect the serial out of the WB to the laptop, i get a 5 flash led error which means a damaged sensor/wire. The heater ground wire is grounded to my amp, the calibration wire to the led/switch, the red to a switched 12v source and the brown and white are connected to the orange connectors in the flashscan. What can i be doing wrong?
    Last edited by blazinblue; November 9th, 2007 at 02:34 PM.

  7. #7
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    I take it you have the six wire LC-1? I would not recommend putting the sensor ground (Blue) to your amp (Chasis grnd)-too much noise. I would put that ground on the back of one of your heads or some place on the motor. The LC-1 should not flash on the LED when ready. It should stay solid.

    Get a backup sensor for sanity sake.

    2000 Silverado Full Size 4x4: Forged 6.2, H/C F1R Procharger
    98A4 Z28: 02 PCM H/C Forged 347, 9" Moser 3.73
    V1 V2 99+up RR COS #5 OLSD Dual Stg N20
    www.efialchemy.com
    www.greatamericancarwar.com

  8. #8
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Set D0961, D0962 to 100% to avoid conflicts with the PT shift tables.

  9. #9
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Can start D1108, D1109 from a lower value, say 0.35.

  10. #10
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Can you draw a diagram of how your LC-1 is connected...?

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