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Thread: 4l80e swap stuck in 2nd

  1. #11
    Senior Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecar
    Oops... slip of the mind... I meant to say: "If you do not..."
    http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....9515#post59515

    2005 Silverado Duramax LLY - EFI Live Tuned
    1969 Chevrolet C-10 Pickup - Turbocharged 5.3L/4L80E - EFI Live Tuned
    1975 Avenger Jet Boat - 6.0L/Berkley pump - EFI Live tune in progress

  2. #12
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    I pm'd Tech Support [if you haven't already].

  3. #13
    New Member
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    Post error codes on 1992 GMC 2500

    Help!! My check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. When I checked for error codes I go nothing at the mechanic with his scanner. I used the jumper to get the code manually and got nothing. I replaced the IAC sensor but it didn't fix it. the check engine light still comes on and by the way, the truck runs rich (6MPG). One more comment/observation: When I jumper the diagnostic block to read the error code, I hear some clicking noise behind the light once I turn the ignition to the "on" position. Once the "clicking" noise stops, the light blinks out code "12" which is a precursor to the error code. No error code are sent. at this point, the jumper is removed and the truck start fine and the check engine light stay off for a day or so and then it comes back on and the story repeats.

    I would appreciate any suggestions/solutions.

    Regards!

  4. #14
    Lifetime Member GMPX's Avatar
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    Sorry, but I think a 1992 GMC 2500 is a little bit to early for most of the users on here to have any magic solution.

    Cheers,
    Ross
    I no longer monitor the forum, please either post your question or create a support ticket.

  5. #15
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old mechanic
    Help!! My check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. When I checked for error codes I go nothing at the mechanic with his scanner. I used the jumper to get the code manually and got nothing. I replaced the IAC sensor but it didn't fix it. the check engine light still comes on and by the way, the truck runs rich (6MPG). One more comment/observation: When I jumper the diagnostic block to read the error code, I hear some clicking noise behind the light once I turn the ignition to the "on" position. Once the "clicking" noise stops, the light blinks out code "12" which is a precursor to the error code. No error code are sent. at this point, the jumper is removed and the truck start fine and the check engine light stay off for a day or so and then it comes back on and the story repeats.

    I would appreciate any suggestions/solutions.

    Regards!
    Try posting this on one of the truck forums such as:
    http://www.pacificp.com/forum/index....212d921199c46e

    http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...play.php?f=106

    http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/

    http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

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