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Thread: Check out my tune. Cant get rid of KR.

  1. #21
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    I zero'd the burst knock.
    I was getting KR for no apparent reason so after talking with a friend who writes the Cal's for GM over here I decided to try it.
    Also another member her helped me out.
    I still get a tiny bit of KR at times....but nothing substantial.
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gao8302
    And your sure that your not getting real kr. why are you desensetizing the knock sensors? Did you do anything to burst knock? What was done?
    I would advise against knock sensor sensitivity changes. Your knock is from running lean while in boost (13.4:1 as I recall). Check over your intake tract first to rule out a leak, if you're still at that point, then it's time to tune your MAF calibration to bring your commanded AFR in line.

    Justin

  3. #23
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    Absolutely listen to Justin.
    I was at the stage where I could not find any reason for the KR so I tried desensitizing the sensor.
    I'm an amateur so whatever I say is purely from my experience with one vehicle and a totally custom setup which nobody seems to be able to figure out/tune.
    One thing I will say about KR.
    The US tolerances are alot less stringent than they are here in Oz.
    I was talking with a friend who writes the cal's for GM here...and he was saying in the Vette's and Camaro's...they have 'acceptable KR' and it's basically "just make sure it won't blow up".
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

  4. #24
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    Makes sense Howard, the stock spark maps for the 4.2L I6 P10s usually see anywhere from 3-7* of knock, stock!! Running premium helps a little, but only at high loads (unless you tune for it like me, then its way better anyway ).
    ~Erik~
    2013 Sonic RS Manual - 1.4L I4T E78, tuned, turbo mods, etc.
    2008 TrailBlazer SS 3SS AWD Summit White - LS2 E67/T42, bolt ons, suspension, etc.
    2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LT 4X4 Summit White - 4.2L I6 P10, lifted, wheels, etc.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dc_justin
    I would advise against knock sensor sensitivity changes. Your knock is from running lean while in boost (13.4:1 as I recall). Check over your intake tract first to rule out a leak, if you're still at that point, then it's time to tune your MAF calibration to bring your commanded AFR in line.

    Justin
    Yes im still waiting to work on the truck. The weather sucks. I will get a log up asap. Thanks again justin for all the help along the way.
    -George-
    00 Chevy silverado 5.3L RCSB 4wd, Forged 370, 224/230 Xer114, FLT lvl 5, 3000 stall, ect.

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