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Thread: Crank Relearn

  1. #1
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    Default Crank Relearn

    I have been unable to perform a crank relearn on my engine. I'm using EFILive scan V7.5. I have a speed density tune, and the only codes i'm getting are 1336. The learn panel is all green and the engines revs fine, in fact too fine...it won't hestiate at 4500 or even up to 5500 RPM. Anyone got any ideas?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    Can't remember...isn't it only the 'commercial' scan and tune which will do the relearn?
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

  3. #3
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Read thru this: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9118.php

    Aren't you getting a MAF code also (altho that shouldn't stop the relearn)...?

    What vehicle/year...?

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    I have a commercial version of EFLive. The vehicle is a mid-engine sports car with a custom harness. I am getting a MAF code (P102) but I agree, since its a SD tune it shouldn't effect the relearn process.

  5. #5
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Do you know if your PCM and/or tune file was originally for automatic or manual transmission...?

    If auto, then I think you have to have the gear range selector PCM inputs indicating Park;
    If man, then I think you have to have the clutch switch input indicating clutch pedal down;

    With auto, you may also have to have the brake pedal switch indicate brake pedal applied.

    There may be other conditions that have to be met.

  6. #6
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    I think that's correct Joe.
    I've done mine a few times.
    As far as I know....brake is required to be pushed and needs to be in Park for the relarn to happen.
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

  7. #7
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    Are you using a PCM with the Blue and Red connectors? If so, Try grounding
    pins 32 and 34 of connector C1-Blue. That will make the PCM think the car is in park or neutral.

    Jeff
    98 GMC RCSB 2WD, Internally stock 305 w/Twin T-3 junkyard Turbos,4L80e,Ramjet intake,42lb.inj., 0411PCM, COS3,4675LBS w/me in it. Best Time on 5 passes-13.01@110

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    Thanks for the great info. I did try grounding pins 32 & 34 on the Blue connector. Still no luck. I have also noticed that the engine idles very rough, which I attributed to the cam (.525 lift 236/226 degree) and that one exhaust is noticably hotter than the other. I am also having a difficult time removing the air from the cooling system. Its running very rich according to the plugs. Could it be that the tune is just too far off for the relearn to work?

  9. #9
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    I just lloked on my schematic...the brake light switch lands on terminal 33...should I short that one too?

  10. #10
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Sounds like some cylinders are not firing in one bank... check for plugs/injectors not firing.

    Bleed air from the cooling system at the cross-over tube (runs under the throttle body), remove the hose from it and let steam escape... eventually coolant will come out.

    You could try to ground 33, check one of the STATE pids to verify that brake applied is being indicated.

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