I've been working through a surge/bucking issue for the longest time. I've logged and changed everything from Throttle cracker/follower to desired air to MAF to VE, etc. I was able to get it to calm down a bit but nothing all that good.
I was running around 28 degrees of timing in the area of the surge/buck and had all my tables in agreement, i.e. Spark High Octane, Base, and Low Octane. The timing didn't move much when surge/buck was occuring. I had done this because I read on the boards that to get a good idle you should run as much spark as you can to get to obtain the lowest MAP at idle. In my case 28 degrees was 'optimum' in that regard.
A friend of mine who runs a h/c LS1 and is tuned with my EFILive had similar timing at idle and the surge/buck points as I did. He decided to take them back to around 20 degrees in the surge/buck area in the High Octane table and the surge almost dissappeared. I did the same thing and got the same results. I also had a problem with stumble when transitioning to idle and that was fixed too. We were running way too much timing in those areas.
I thought about this and it made total sense. I made the idle very efficient. So efficient that the area of peak efficiency was very narrow and almost 'spiked'. This manifested as a constant need to make the Desired Air perfect or false learning occurred. My LTFT's at idle were all over the place and never lined up. I had a very acrid burning smell coming from my exhaust even though I tried to make it richer. Backing off the timing fixed all these issues on both cars. It may have been less efficient but it broadened the area of efficiency enough that low load tuning is now very easy. The car idles great, has excellent low load manners, etc.
Before this I tried to eliminate the surge/buck by making the High Octane and Base Spark close. This meant that I had very high timing in the low load areas and was making the low load efficiency of the motor too large and that was causing the surging/bucking. When I brought the low load area's of the rpm's in question down to the 18-20 degree area the car started to behave so much better. Even the clutch, a Textralia OZ700 which had some chatter, stopped chattering.
I can now take my wife to dinner in the car and hand the keys to the valet.
The throttle response has not been negatively affected because as soon as you move your foot a bit the load shifts and you are out of the cells into more aggressive ones. When I thought about it, it simply came down to the fact that there are some areas of the car's performance that I don't want running at peak efficiency.
I guess you can say that I was relying on the recommendations of some very experienced tuners on timing issues of other cars and was not considering that those recommendation might not apply to my setup.
I'm still tweaking the tune, but now I'm doing things like optimizing the AC ramp in and out.