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Thread: Cold start great but warm start sucks."Idle

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    Lifetime Member mvvette97's Avatar
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    Default Cold start great but warm start sucks."Idle

    I have a 228/230 cam with full boltons. It starts right up and idles great cold but after it's warmed up if I turn it off and restart it I have to feather the throttle for about 10 seconds before it will idle. After it has learned how to idle it's fine and will never die at stops or anything. It's just when ya first start it after it warmed up. Any ideas what tables I should be looking at to correct this? thanks

  2. #2
    Lifetime Member mvvette97's Avatar
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    Here is the tune
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Lifetime Member 5.7ute's Avatar
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    Take a look here. http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....ht=start+table
    It contains a link to one of Marcins spreadsheets that has helped others with warm start issues.
    The Tremor at AIR

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    Your Idle|Desired Airflow curve is almost too smooth. Was this done by hand, or are the values based on logging RAFIG from a cold start to full warm idle?

    Also, when your idling fully warmed up (over 80c)... how many steps is your IAC open in the logs?

    2002 WS6, All-Lunati 383 Strok'r @11:1, Cartek Heads, Keith/Ross Racing Custom Cam, Victor Jr., 492whp 457wtq,
    Cartek Clutch, 9" Moser w/4.11's, 35 spline Detroit Locker, QA1's, NX, BMR, Tuned w/ EFILive V2 Black Box Logging
    Check Out My Latest Tune File: HERE

  5. #5
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    Unfortunately that table of Marcin's didn't fix my warm start/re-start issues.
    Still stalls unless I feather the throttle on a warm restart.
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

  6. #6
    Lifetime Member Aloicious's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hquick View Post
    Unfortunately that table of Marcin's didn't fix my warm start/re-start issues.
    Still stalls unless I feather the throttle on a warm restart.
    that sucks, I wonder if your whipple is throwing things off for the spreadsheet to work correctly (higher MAP when starting over N/A??). it did help mine and it hasn't given me any starting problems since then cold or warm.

    part of the issue with my cranking VE table is that the stock '02 Xvan tune that my tune is based off of was just a flat 1.8 across the entire cranking VE table. it worked okay stock, but once I put in my cam and swaped intakes it wasn't right, I originally had to increase it to 2.2 across the board to have decent starts, then after using Marcin's table its at a good slope, starting around 1.2 at the very low end, and slopes up to around 2.3-2.4. it's helped tremendously for my setup. I'd say give it a shot.

    EDIT - Hey howard, were you able to try the true OL settings in your COS 3? I'm curious if it worked or not for you. mine's still doing good, several more logs, and no trims, even checked it with my handheld code reader that can pull up live data, and it confirms no trims.
    1996 c1500 gen1e 5.7L - the "LS31", 24x CNP, LS2 coils, modified T56, 12200411PCM running COS3, zz4 cam, custom MPFI, etc. coming soon: Twin Turbos

  7. #7
    Lifetime Member hquick's Avatar
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    Yeah....I'm running those settings at present. Just got back from a 2000km round trip....no issues (except stalling on a warm restart). Burb ran well.
    Howard

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


    98 K1500 'HOLDEN' Suburban.
    Custom Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine intake, 0411 PCM, 4L80E w/shift kit

  8. #8
    Senior Member Sid447's Avatar
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    I had hot re-start issues for four years or so.

    Here in the Logic-Free Zone where ambient temps get pretty high. It took a lot of logging and tweaking to get where I am now which is hopefully clear of it!
    In my case (just to compare notes) Cold starts, no problems at all.
    Run the car to operating temp and then switch off. A re-start after any period of up to 2 hours or so would normally have the engine fire-up and then die after a few to several seconds.
    Felt like a fuel vapour lock.
    It finally fully went after at first utilising Holden GTS settings in {B3204} and {B3206} which helped.....and then at the last tweak entering some values into {B4342} (this table had been all zeroes before).

  9. #9
    Joe (Moderator) joecar's Avatar
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    Sid, good job...

  10. #10
    Lifetime Member mvvette97's Avatar
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    I can't even find a table B4342

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