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Thread: Can you look at my Log

  1. #11
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    Sorry about the late reply but I was at SEMA.

    Any ways, when I got dyno tuned adding more timing was not adding any hp/tq. Now that my cr changed that may not be the case anymore.

    My LTFT's were in the +/-1% range before but now with my new heads it was +17-20%. We added some fuel to be safe but with no wideband hooked up it was like flying blind.

    What is the RAFIG/RAFPN process? And how much should I lower my desired airflow, idle spark overspeed and underspeed tables?

  2. #12
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Tuning without a WB -

    RAFIG/PN and idle - http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661

    I still haven't had a chance to look at your log. But unless idle is giving you a lot of shit, you probably won't have to do most of what's in my tutorial. The RAFIG/PN process is always good to do no matter what though.

    Some things to keep in mind:

    Assuming this build is waiting on a turbo, it's probably low compression, right? If that's the case, it's not going to make the same power as a normal N/A block. Pretty much a given. Normal N/A LS-based motors usually run ~27* of timing with aftermarket head/cam setups. At least, that's usually a good average. Some take less, some take more. How you're pre-turbo setup will run - IDK. Regardless, I have to ask - why are you spending so much effort to get it to run balls out before the turbo is installed? If you're working on idle or part throttle drive-ability, I get it. Otherwise, I'm at a loss here...

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSpdDmon View Post
    Tuning without a WB -

    RAFIG/PN and idle - http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661

    I still haven't had a chance to look at your log. But unless idle is giving you a lot of shit, you probably won't have to do most of what's in my tutorial. The RAFIG/PN process is always good to do no matter what though.

    Some things to keep in mind:

    Assuming this build is waiting on a turbo, it's probably low compression, right? If that's the case, it's not going to make the same power as a normal N/A block. Pretty much a given. Normal N/A LS-based motors usually run ~27* of timing with aftermarket head/cam setups. At least, that's usually a good average. Some take less, some take more. How you're pre-turbo setup will run - IDK. Regardless, I have to ask - why are you spending so much effort to get it to run balls out before the turbo is installed? If you're working on idle or part throttle drive-ability, I get it. Otherwise, I'm at a loss here...
    I just want to know what it can do before I install the turbo. Plus it gives me a change to sort out other things like suspension and traction issues.

    If I knew how to tune it would not even be an issue as I have plenty of time just don't have the knowledge yet. I can go out and drive and make adjustments until correct but I just know enough to get me in trouble at this point. This will help me learn the process so I can later apply it to me other vehicles and hopefully my SD tune once the turbo goes on.

  4. #14
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    SSpdDmon did you get a chance to look at my tune?

    I looked at my log and it looks like I was running 150F IAT's which is why my timing was so low. I can turn that off in my tune but I would rather do the IAT mod that separates the IAT from my MAF to get real air temp not just heat soak.

  5. #15
    Lifetime Member SSpdDmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR View Post
    SSpdDmon did you get a chance to look at my tune?

    I looked at my log and it looks like I was running 150F IAT's which is why my timing was so low. I can turn that off in my tune but I would rather do the IAT mod that separates the IAT from my MAF to get real air temp not just heat soak.
    No chance. But, if you're seeing 150*F IAT's, I'd say that's a part of your problem. Relocating your IAT might be necessary before the turbo - definitely will have to be done with the turbo. Sounds like you've got some serious heat soaking going on. It's best to get the mechanical side right before trying to tune. Otherwise, it's just a band-aid on the true problem.

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